Category: South Africa

  • Africa Recap

    Africa Recap

    Now that I’ve been home over 6 weeks, I thought I’d write a recap about our trip to the breathtaking countries we visited in the continent of Africa. People have asked me which adventure was better — Africa or Antarctica. I can’t answer that because both were so different, but they do share 3 things in common — unbelievable outdoor adventures, amazing animals, and experiences that brought tears to my eyes.

    Yes, I have been known to cry when leaving to come home (Hawaii—I am talking about you), but never have I felt such a strong pull toward one place in such a short time. I absorbed every last experience that was this trip. I left a piece of my soul in the places I visited and hope that I will go back one day to reclaim it!

    A week after coming home I went to the St. Louis Zoo. Why? It paled in comparison to what I saw in Africa but it was a way to see some beautiful animals. I have been craving that since returning home. It seems strange I am living in a place where there are no dogs barking because the elephants are walking down the street at night, lions looking for their next kill, or baby baboons riding attached to their mommas’ bellies. My surroundings aren’t as nearly as interesting — well we did have both the 13-year AND the 17-year cicadas in June…the first time both emerged together since 1803. And we also had the incredible Northern Lights display back in May—rare for Missouri and simply gorgeous. But the animals! And the stars! And the sunrises and sunsets! Sigh…

    Everywhere we went, we could see how much people cared for the land and the animals. Every guide followed the park rules, respected the animals, and stopped to pick up trash when they saw it in the bush.

    I wrote reviews on TripAdvisor for all the hotels and a couple of miscellaneous adventures where the people really went above and beyond. Through those reviews, I was able re-live our adventure—plus I have watched the videos a few dozen times.

    If you’re asking yourself, “Should I go to Africa?”, don’t think twice…GO!

    Africa —you have stolen my heart ❤️. I cannot wait to go back!

    Here is a video, compliments of my travel companion and friend, Jen. Enjoy!! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LxZ7YiSOVOFMiD9AC9E4cfL0H7LVOK61/view?usp=sharing

  • Full Safari Itinerary (5 countries in Africa)

    Full Safari Itinerary (5 countries in Africa)

    This was the itinerary for our African Safari. We did NOT do the extension at the end to Cape Town — we’re saving that for next time!

    We call ourselves, The Safari Sisters. A group of 4 friends who decided that life is too short to not explore our world with abandon. We started to plan our African adventure about 16 months prior.

    Let me back up — the idea for a safari came about when I was “thinking” about going to Antarctica. I asked my friend, Laura, if she’d like to join me. She said “Sure, if you come on a safari with me!”. That was an easy answer. When we returned from Antarctica, we started planning the next month.

    After doing a lot of research (I was obsessed with planning the perfect trip!), we decided that trying to figure out an itinerary on our own was nearly impossible. Therefore, each of us talked about what we wanted to do while on the continent of Africa – Victoria Falls, game drives, a walking safari, a real safari “lodge”, lots of elephants, cultural and educational experiences. Then we started to explore travel companies who could give us all of the above! It wasn’t too long into our search that Smithsonian Journeys caught our eye, and in particular, the tour called African Safari: A Wildlife Adventure

    Here is the itinerary as described on their website. B = Breakfast included, etc. I can say now that we’re back we had the small group they promised (14 people + our tour director and our expert) and the itinerary below doesn’t do the trip justice. It was more than we expected. In fact, we pinched ourselves throughout the trip as it felt like we were living in a dream!

    ITINERARY

    Day 1 — Depart the U.S. for Johannesburg, South Africa

    Day 2 — Johannesburg

    Arrive in Johannesburg and transfer to the leafy Rosebank suburb, where you’ll check in early to your hotel. If you arrive in the morning, breakfast will be available for you. The remainder of the day is unscheduled so that you can rest and relax and get to know some of the trendy neighborhoods within this diverse metropolis known as the “City of Gold.” (B)

     Hotel 54 on Bath

    Day 3 — Johannesburg and Soweto

    Meet your fellow travelers this morning and embark on a full-day tour of Soweto, a historic Black township known for its student uprising against the apartheid government in 1976. See the home of Nobel laureate Archbishop Desmond Tutu, and tour the Mandela House, the Soweto home where Nelson Mandela lived during his rise as an anti-apartheid activist. At the moving Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum, learn more about the struggle against apartheid and the Soweto uprising. Then hear stories from a Soweto resident who was present during the uprising. Tonight, enjoy a welcome dinner. (B,L,D)

     Hotel 54 on Bath

    Day 4 — Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

    Fly to LivingstoneZambia, then cross into Zimbabwe and settle into your elegant lodge in the town of Victoria Falls. Set on the border of the two countries, the falls were first documented in 1855 by explorer David Livingstone, who promptly claimed them for Queen Victoria. Experience the power of this tremendous waterfall, created as the Zambezi River drops more than 350 feet into a narrow chasm. (B,D)

     Pioneers Lodge

    Day 5 — Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve

    Set off on a morning wildlife drive in Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve, home to the “Big Five” and many other species. This former hunting concession is now known for its conservation programs. Learn about the successes of its black rhino breeding program—and the challenges of fighting poaching—as you search out these endangered and elusive animals. Late this afternoon, embark on a sundowner” dinner cruise on the Zambezi River. (B,D)

     Pioneers Lodge

    Day 6 — Victoria Falls

    Take in views of the waterfall on a guided tour of the Victoria Falls Bridge, a steel bridge opened in 1905. Walk the catwalks and learn about the construction and significance of the bridge, which was intended by Cecil Rhodes to be part of a larger Cape Town to Cairo railway line. The afternoon is yours to relax at the lodge and enjoy its pool and gardens. Tonight, gather for a lecture by a guest speaker on “The Story of David Livingstone.” (B,D)

     Pioneers Lodge

    Day 7 — Chobe National Park, Botswana

    Journey by motorcoach to Botswana this morning, and head toward Chobe National Park, which boasts one of the largest concentrations of wildlife in all of Africa. After a leisurely lunch at your lodge, set sail on the Chobe River on a wildlife cruise, watching for elephants, hippos, crocodiles, some of the park’s 450 species of birds (including sacred ibis, carmine bee-eaters, fish eagles, and kingfishers). Enjoy the sunset on the river and return to the lodge for dinner tonight. (B,L,D)

     Chobe Marina Lodge

    Days 8-9 — Chobe National Park

    Chobe National Park covers 7,270 square miles of diverse terrain that harbors an exceptional array of wildlife, including the world’s largest elephant population (some 120,000), as well as zebras, lions, giraffes, impalas, wildebeests, and buffalo. Spend two full days discovering the park and its biodiversity on early morning wildlife drives and afternoon boat safaris. During your downtime between wildlife outings, enjoy the amenities of the lodge. (B,L,D daily)

     Chobe Marina Lodge

    Day 10 — South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

    A morning flight brings you to Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, a vast and unspoiled stretch of woodlands and plains along the Luangwa River. Settle into your stunning lodge, nestled amid mahogany and ebony trees within the park, and encounter the area’s abundant fauna on an afternoon open-vehicle wildlife drive or a walking safari—or from the lodge’s deck, which overlooks two lagoons that draw a steady stream of animals. (B,L,D)

     Mfuwe Lodge

    Days 11-12 — South Luangwa National Park

    Covering some 3,500 square miles, South Luangwa National Park was established in 1972 but long overlooked thanks to its remote location. Today it boasts one of Africa’s highest concentrations of wildlife, including unusual finds like Zambia’s endemic Crawshay’s zebra, the elusive bushbuck, and the spiral-horned kudu; as well as some 400 bird species, wild dogs, giraffes, lions, leopards and much more. Enjoy two full days to discover the park and its inhabitants on morning, daytime, and nocturnal safaris with seasoned rangers.

    You’ll also have the opportunity to go on guided walking safaris—an intimate and exhilarating experience that spotlights lesser-known flora and fauna; meet children at a local school; and visit a borehole project that provides water for the community. On your final evening, gather for a festive farewell dinner at the lodge. (B,L,D, daily)

     Mfuwe Lodge

    Days 13-14 — Lusaka/Depart for home

    Travel by light aircraft today to Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, where you’ll have a day room to rest before your overnight flight back to the U.S. (B)

    Our Safari group at Mfuwe Lodge, including Eric, Tour Director from South Africa, and Robyn, our Expert who was born in Zimbabwe.

    We did all of the above AND MORE. For example, in Victoria Falls we had the opportunity to visit an elephant sanctuary and feed these incredible rescues. We also took a helicopter tour over Victoria Falls to see a different perspective from the air. While at the Chobe Marina Lodge, we took a morning trip to Impalila Island on Namibia. And, the spa in Mfuwe Lodge sits at the end of a hippo pond! From the educational front, Robyn Keene-Young gave 4 different presentations about the wildlife. She’s one of the main reasons why we choose Smithsonian – we wanted to have an expert so that we can truly understand what we’re seeing, hearing, and experiencing.

    Out on our morning game drive in South Luangwa National Park
    Exploring South Luangwa National Park with our local guide, Alec.
    Our group with Robyn
    While we started as strangers, we became fast friends! What an amazing group of people from various parts of the U.S.A.

    Thank you Smithsonian and Odysseys Unlimited – you made this trip magical!

  • What I packed for the safari

    What I packed for the safari

    Some of you have asked for this—so here it is!

    Safari is a Swahili word that means journey or expedition and is from “Safara”, an Arabic word that means “travel”. It’s been used in our English language since the late 19th century.

    Per our guide, it’s used when you “camp”. What we did wasn’t actually a safari—it was game viewing / game drives.

    Whatever you want to call it, I had to pack for it. So for the sake of this post, I will call it a safari.

    One thing you’ll find when packing for a safari is that you need to plan! If you will be traveling on smaller airplanes, there are limitations on the type of suitcases (soft-sided duffle vs regular suitcase) and weight (we were allowed 33 pounds for checked luggage and 13 pounds for carry on). This makes packing extremely important (and difficult). I was one of four friends going on this trip so I had three people I consulted with as well. 

    Another important thing to remember—you can wash your clothes! Or, depending on where you stay, send them out to be washed (and it’s fairly inexpensive). One couple on the tour brought 3 outfits each and cycled through them, using the lodge’s laundry. They also had disposable cotton underwear. Bottom line, you have to do what’s right for you. For example, my Oofos were a must bring!

    We received guidance from Smithsonian Institute / Odyssey Tours (more on them in a separate post. Spoiler Alert—they were fantastic) but I also did my own research and made revisions the week before travel due to warmer than anticipated forecasted weather.

    Our safari was in July—winter in the Southern Hemisphere where it’s chilly in the morning and evening, but warms up during the day. Most days we’re in the 80s (Fahrenheit). Layers are the name of the packing game!

    Also, I tend to be an over-packer. Therefore, I packed for this trip over 10 months—gathering things here and there as safari colors aren’t a staple in my wardrobe. Important that you do wear the right colors on the actual game drives. I avoided really dark colors like black and blue because of the tsetse flies, and found it easier to go with safari colors for the full wardrobe. Everything went with everything – Greens, khakis, light blue and browns.

    I was on Safari for a total of 16 days (including travel time). We started in Johannesburg for the first 2 1/2 days, and then spent 3 days in each of these countries—Zimbabwe-Victoria Falls, Botswana- Chobe National Park (with a day trip to Namibia), and Zambia- South Luangwa National Park.

    Here’s my packing list, along with commentary. I’ve posted links to some clothes or similar ones. By the way, I don’t get paid for posting any of these links. I’m simply sharing what worked for me. Every safari is unique based on a variety of factors (time of year, location, hotel/lodge vs camping, etc) so guidance from your tour operator is important!

    Plane clothes

    We went to Chicago a day ahead of our international flight to make sure we were there. I have been victim to canceled flights so we didn’t want any issues. Therefore, I had 3 sets of airplane clothes:

    STL—>Chicago:

    • Brown cotton sleeveless dress (Z-Supply has the best here—soft, cotton, and comfy). They no longer have the brown color but here’s the style). I wore this same outfit on the last night when we had a going away dinner celebration under the stars.

    • Lightweight Free People cream cotton cardigan sweater. I can’t find a picture of this sweater, but it’s perfect for chilly nights as well as air conditioning on the plane.

    Latte Brown Leather Naot (Kayla) sandals – these are the best! I wore them on many casual occasions—hanging around the lodge and for dinner.

    • I also threw in two colorful scarves that I wore with other outfits at night and brought one on the plane as well.

    Chicago—>Dubai:

    XCVI green flowy pants (doesn’t look like the green ones are in stock but these are my favorite travel pants)

    • White long sleeved gauze top (super soft and 100% cotton)

    • Tank (khaki)

    • ON Sneakers (Cloudnova in neutral colors)

    Fleece Jacket from LL Bean

    Oofos in the Nomad color (I wore these as slippers, around the lodge, with shorts, and on the plane…love these at home too!)

    Dubai—>Johannesburg, South Africa (after we showered and changed into an outfit we had stuffed in our carryon).

    Pastel Rosemary XCVI pants

    • Winter white lightweight cotton sweater from O’Neill

    • Cream Tank

    • ON sneakers

    • Oofos sandals (brought in backpack)

    I was right at 33 pounds checked bag and 13 pounds carry on. Whew! Coming home I was around 38 pounds (souvenirs! Or as they say “curios”).

    Checked luggage – again I had to use a soft sided duffel. I got the Adventure Duffle from LL Bean with my initials embroidered on the side. It doesn’t look like they have the color I bought (soft spruce) but there are many other colors. I could’ve done wheels but again that it just adds weight. I was a tad nervous about hauling that bag around but since we were on a tour, the bags were collected for us. Where I had to carry it, I just dragged it from the handle on the end.

    • TSA approved travel lock

    • AirTag buried within my clothes

    • Luggage tag (from the tour company)

    • Dryer sheets – I kept a few in a plastic bag to ward off any smells that could occur in my luggage

    • I used packing cubes for everything. That way I could only pull out what I needed. I know that many people roll their clothes, but I’ve never gotten into the habit.

    • A few plastic grocery bags. I don’t like using plastic, but very handy for soiled or wet clothes/shoes on your way home.

    • Dirty laundry bag

    Shoes and Clothes-

    Shoes – 4 pairs

    • ON sneakers – my favs! And I found them in a neutral color.

    • Sandals (Naot) – evenings and walking around. Good orthotics and looks nice! I wore with skirts as well as shorts/pants. See above for link.

    • Ofoos Flip flops (see link above) – good for walking around the lodges and in the airplane. Super comfortable – like a pillow for your feet (but no strap on the back). They are also waterproof. The only time we needed waterproof shoes was around Victoria Falls. Many of the group wore Keen, Merrill or Teva sandals. I probably should’ve brought better water shoes, but I love my Oofos (did I say that already?? 😊) and like to have open-toed shoes on the airplane.

    Eddie Bauer Cairn Mid Hiking Boots in driftwood color – wore them only on the game drives and walking safari. If you don’t want to bring boots, you could wear sneakers on the game drives because you don’t get out of the vehicle. But they are warm, waterproof and comfortable for the game drives and supportive for walking safaris in the bush.

    Undergarments

    • Underwear – I brought 10 pair but didn’t need to. I paid for laundry at every place we went and the last place did our laundry for free.

    • Bras – 5, including two sports bras for bumpy vehicles while out on game drives. Additionally, I thought I could get by with 4, but it was pretty hot and I needed different bras for tank tops as well as sports bras.

    • Socks – 3 low and 4 to wear with boots. I could’ve gotten by with 3 boot socks.

    • Fuzzy socks – one for the airplane and another pair in my checked luggage. I could’ve gotten by with just one pair and kept them in my carry-on.

    Layering Outerwear

    • LL Bean Green Fleece – a must for layering (see link above).

    • Khaki REI fleece – an alternative to the green fleece. These get dusty on game drives this time of year. When I had one out to wash, I could wear the other one. I used these at night for jackets at dinner too.

    • Eddie Bauer Green vest – looks very cool for a safari but I didn’t need it! I wore over T-Shirts and long sleeved T-Shirts a couple of times. I don’t have a link because I’ve had this one for years.

    Green Kuhl Rain Coat (Outsider – Sage color) – a must for layering. This was my outer layer and was wind proof. It’s also waterproof but it didn’t rain when we were there.

    • Gloves – used on all morning game drives. A must this time of the year.

    • Buff/Gator – used on all morning game drives for warmth and also to keep me from inhaling dust.

    Other Safari Gear

    Green Tilley hat – the best!! I wouldn’t have done the trip without it. It’s packable, washable, and protects from the sun.

    Straw Hat – I wore once and left in Chobe…it itched terribly.

    Baseball cap – wore once but didn’t really need because I wore the Tilley.

    School Supplies – we visited a school in Zimbabwe and brought school supplies.

    Sunglasses!! I brought two pairs of Goodrs (it was recommended to bring two in case you lose one). Both were in safari colors.

    Pants/Shorts – In addition to those I wore on the plane (and also at dinner):

    LL Bean Ripstop Pull On Pants. This brand doesn’t fail! You cannot go wrong with any LL Bean pants. My friend wore the pants that zipped off to shorts. Mine didn’t zip off but had an elastic waist with a tie string. They were comfortable!

    Prana Koen khaki pants – most comfortable light weight pants.

    • Lululemon green cargo pants – could have done without. I wore once.

    Kuhl Freeflex roll up green pants – perfect pants for game drives and travel days. Very comfy.

    Orvis Explorer Ankle Pants – these were for dinners but I probably didn’t need them. It was nice to have something that didn’t look like I was going on a game drive. 

    • Dark Green leggings – didn’t wear and didn’t need to bring

    LL Bean Green Hiking Shorts – this was a last minute add due to the weather forecast. While I didn’t wear them for the game drives, I wore them in between the drives, when we went shopping, when we had the elephant encounter, and the helicopter ride. I wish I would have brought another pair of shorts and removed a couple pair of pants. Super comfy and light weight. I even washed them in the shower and they dried fast!

    Long Sleeve Shirts

    Kuhl Khaki Kamp – loved this one

    Orvis tidewater blue long sleeve cotton T-shirt – casual and good for layering

    J Crew Factory Cotton Teddie Sweater in light khaki – wore for dinners with pants. This was a good staple. (I brought a few lightweight sweaters with me and I probably could’ve narrowed it down and eliminated one or two, but not this one!

    J Crew Factory Classic Cotton Cardigan Sweater. The link doesn’t have the olive color that I bought. I wore a green/white stripped tank top with it from Garnet Hill.

    • Orvis blue checked long sleeve shirt – I don’t believe they have this anymore, but it’s very similar to the Kuhl shirt I listed above with the link. Light weight and SPF protection and the sleeves roll up. It’s a lighter blue.

    Free Fly Long sleeve fleece sweatshirt – this was great on those morning game drives when it was cold! I have been impressed with this brand—comfortable lightweight bamboo cotton pullover crew.

    • Light weight khaki v-neck cardigan sweater from Quince – wore for dinners with a tank top under. I don’t see my sweater on the site, but the link above will take you to their sweaters.

    • LL Bean Green Long sleeve soft top (SPF)

    • Beyond Yoga brown long sleeve top – didn’t wear but I love this brand. Soft soft soft!

    • Tan gauze button down – wore for dinners with pants

    T-shirts / Tanks

    Note—I could have done with 3-4 T-shirts (cream, white, green) vs the 5 I brought. I wouldn’t have changed the tank tops as I wore them under tops/sweaters. Also, I stayed neutral but it’s ok to do other colors (blue, light pink) to wear with shorts during the day):

    Onno green T-shirt – wore for game drives in the afternoon and also under the sweatshirt. I really love this brand

    Garnet Hill White and Cream T-Shirts (2)

    • V neck T-Shirts (2) – cream and white (ones I had)

    • Tanks (4) – Z Supply Khaki Tank, White and Canvas Heather (cream) Tanks from PRANA (these are my favorite!) + two others I already had. I wear tanks under most everything.

    Lounge/PJs

    • Pajamas – I wore the Beyond Yoga pants and long sleeved top with a white tank. While it’s really not pajamas, the Featherweight brand is so soft and the perfect weight for sleeping.

    Yoga pants in birch Heather and matching top for lounging from Beyond Yoga

    Dinners

    I didn’t find it necessary to dress for dinner but it was fun when we had time to shower and change. In addition to the long brown dress I wore on the plane, here is the other two skirts I brought:

    • At Earthbound Trading Company I found a reversible Sari wrap skirt. I wore it with the with tan v-neck sweater / green sweater. I could have left it at home but it was light weight.

    • Multi colored cotton skirt – I found this at Buckle and wore one warm evening with the tan cardigan, cream tank, and Naot sandals. (Cannot find the link!)

    Swimsuit – I brought it but didn’t wear it. Since the nights are chilly, the pools were cold! Plus we didn’t have time.

    Carryon backpack – I used the Patagonia Ultralight Black Hole 27L nylon backpack that can be worn as a backpack or carried like a tote. It was perfect.

    • Luggage tag (from tour company)

    • AirTag

    • Light weight blanket (from Cocoon) – didn’t use as the plane had blankets and pillows

    Day backpack in army green from Amazon. 3 people in our party had the same one so I tied a bandana on the top. This folds up into a little pouch and I used on every game drive to carry my binoculars, phone, battery pack, etc.

    • Eye cover (didn’t use), fuzzy socks

    • Neck pillow for plane. I brought one but left in Johannesburg. The seats on the long haul flights curve around the neck.

    HydraPak water bottle – I didn’t use it once. Because we were on a tour, they made sure we had water everywhere we went. The last lodge gave us a reusable water bottle to use when there. Luckily the HydraPak collapsed and I could just keep it in the backpack. It’s a cool water bottle and I’ll use it at home. 

    • Money belt with passport, extra pictures in case I lost my passport, copy of passport, money, two credit cards, driver’s license and insurance card. I did not use the money belt. It stayed in my backpack. I had everything above in my Crossbody purse and I used that everywhere I went. The passport was kept us safe at every hotel/lodge.

    • Small Kipling Crossbody purse, which I have had for years. This was a last-minute add. I’m so glad I brought it because it was more comfortable than the money belt. I should have left the money belt at home.

    • iPhone in a Walli case with a strap that goes around the neck. The strap around the neck was a lifesaver and worked well on the game drive so I could be hands-free. The Walli case also has a pocket where you can keep a couple credit cards and a finger strap that can be used to prop up your phone like a kickstand.

    • I brought a waterproof case that I slid my entire phone into when we went to Victoria Falls so that it would not get wet.

    • Kindle

    • Earbuds – I did not need them. On every flight, they gave us headphones and I was too busy to use headphones during the trip. I could’ve left these at home.

    • Charger cords – my iPhone, Kindle, and Apple Watch all use the same USB-C charger. Not many places we went use the USB-C so you may want to bring a little piece that converts your USB-C to USB-A.

    • Adapter for the countries we were going to in Africa. Here’s the one I bought from Amazon and it worked well in the countries we visited.

    • Curling iron – it has dual voltage so no converter needed.

    • Portable battery – this was a must! There are many times that I took so many pictures I was running out of battery so I always had my battery pack with me.

    • Bluetooth dongle for plane to watch movies – again, didn’t need it.

    • Eye glass cleaner cloth

    • Head lamp – I didn’t use this once and could have left at home.

    • Two pairs of reading glasses.

    • Make up – very little but enough to make me feel put together when I needed it.

    • Tweezers and a small grooming scissors. Make sure this goes into your checked luggage outside of the U.S.

    • Hair ties, scrunchies and brush

    • Wipes / hand sanitizer

    • Pen

    • Safety pins

    • Medicine – a friend and I split the medication. For example, she brought Tylenol and I brought Advil. We also brought Imodium AD, Pepto, and Mucinex. All medication was in the original packaging or prescription bottle (like our Malaria drug. The four of us took our malaria pill every day at lunch. I also brought some hydration pills —which came in handy for dehydration (gave some to those in our group).

    • Jewelry – very little and nothing of value. I brought an extra watchband, casual/inexpensive necklace, silicon ring, couple of beaded bracelets. I bought a few beaded/stone bracelets when I was there, and I wore them a lot as well.

    Binoculars – these are a must! Get a good pair. You will use these on every game drive. Click above to see the ones I bought and they worked great.

    • Toiletry bag – everything was travel size (3.4 ounces or less) and fit into a reusable clear plastic case—ie deodorant, tooth brush, toothpaste (brought two travel sized), facial cleanser, face lotion, sunscreen, eye cream, Listerine (two travel sized), razor, shampoo/ conditioner, QTips, lip moisturizer, shower gel, etc. A note about shower liquid soap – Every place we went had it except the last place. They had bar soap. Luckily, I had stuck a travel sized body wash in my bag and used it there. This is simply my preference.

    • Bug spray – travel sized. My friend carried this for the both of us. I didn’t spray it once but another friend used it every evening. We also used mosquito nets every night and the lodges spray really well. I saw a couple of mosquitos and believe I was bitten. However, this is a good time of year since it’s quite dry—the rainy season brings more bugs! (And snakes)

    • Travel sized Poopouri – I had a roommate so better to spray 💩

    Note—we sent our clothes to be laundered throughout the safari. One place did our clothes for free. Two of my friends brought washing sheets so you could actually wash your clothes when you were in the shower and then hang them to dry.

    I think that’s it! I’m happy to answer any questions you may have so feel free to reach out.

     

    (more…)
  • The Perfect Day (Part 3)

    The Perfect Day (Part 3)

    When I didn’t think the day could get any better in Zimbabwe, it did!

    Our night cap and July 4th celebration was a Dinner Cruise on the Zambezi River.

    All aboard the Malachite!
    Getting ready to cruise down the Zambezi River! 🦛 🐊 🌅
    Cheers to July 4th and friendship! These Zambezi specials were made from Ginger Beer, Lemonade and Orange Mazoe. Some of us may have had vodka added 😉

    After drinks, appetizers, and great conversation about our unbelievable day, we saw some animals! The Egyptian goose, a couple of crocodiles, and this little fellow who just wanted to sleep. He had some scars so the theory is he’s been battling his way into a bloat of hippos or trying to stay in his bloat.

    On the banks of the Zambezi
    Location, location, location!
    There weren’t any fireworks, but just like the day started with a gorgeous sunrise, we finished with a jaw dropping sunset!
  • The Perfect Day (Part 1)

    The Perfect Day (Part 1)

    Have you ever had one of those days that just is perfect from start to finish? That was today for me in Zimbabwe.

    Because it was so perfect, I’m going to split this post into three parts from the three distinct events that we did today.

    Let’s start with private game drive to The Stanley and Livingstone Private Game Reserve, on 4,000 hectares of land and home to the big 5, including the critically endangered black rhinoceros. These animals are poached for their horns, which have been used in Chinese medicine for years to cure a number of ailments. According to our guide there only around 5,000 left. Today, their horns are removed so the animals are not poached/killed, and grow back within two years.

    Our wake up call at 5:00 am. We were out in the jeep, bundled up, and ready to go by 5:30 am. It was a chilly start to the day but on our drive to the private game reserve we saw three shooting stars and knew it would be a memorable morning.

    First game drive of the trip

    Upon entering the reserve, we saw the most beautiful sunrise

    Sunrise on July 4, 2024 in Zimbabwe

    While on our way to find the rhinos, we ran into a small herd of elephants. It was quite the encounter. The guide stopped the Jeep and we stood motionless as the bulls crossed the road. A mother shook her head at us as a warning to stay back as she crossed with her baby. Then a teenager had a stare down with us before we proceeded on our way. Incredible experience where my heart skipped a few beats. It’s always the goal to stay a distance from the animals; however, in this case, they were right there!

    We then found the black rhinoceros. In fact, we found two of them! What a sight to see as they snapped the branches from the trees and ate the leaves along with it. They are quite noisy eaters! The black rhinos can also lift heir heads quite high, unlike the white rhinos who are ground grazers.

    Two Black Rhinos having their breakfast

    The morning continued with sightings of: giraffes, warthogs, the elusive Roan Antelope (our one guide said she may see one every 2-3 years!), zebras, kudus, impalas, and baboons. Here are a few pics/videos.

    The Roan Antelope
    Peek-a-boo Giraffe 🦒
    Such regal animals
    Baby warthog crossing
    The baboons! Once we were back at the lodge, our Smithsonian expert talked about the 8 months she and her husband lived with the baboons for a National Geographic documentary.
    Cheers to a fantastic morning!
    (This is like a fruity Baileys and quite delicious!)
    Time to head back for our next adventure!
  • July 2, 2024: The struggle against apartheid – a history lesson

    July 2, 2024: The struggle against apartheid – a history lesson

    Today was…indescribable. I am trying to find the right words for our step back in time as we learned more about the South African history of apartheid from 1948-1994. I will do my best to summarize.

    First, our local guide, Chezlin, took us on a tour of Soweto, a symbol of the struggle against apartheid. Its original name means South Western Townships and was formed under the Native (Urban Areas) Act of 1923. Black and Colored South Africans were forcibly moved here during apartheid and were further segregated into ethnic groups. The houses were “match box” homes with very little room. There was no electricity and no indoor plumbing. Today Soweto is home to 2 million people and is made up of 37 suburbs. There remain shanty towns (squatter camps), which have many health and safety concerns.

    First stop – Freedom Square, or the Walter Sisulu Square in the oldest suburb, Kliptown. It was here that 3,000 people met to work on The Freedom charter – a unified vision for the future of all South Africans. This charter consisted of 10 principles that were adopted at the Congress of the People in 1955 and remains the cornerstone of African National Congress (ANC) policy and the foundation of South Africa’s 1996 constitution. It begins with “The People Shall Govern!”

    X marks the spot on the ceiling and is how South Africans mark their choices when voting.
    The square is now a national heritage site and the brick tower contains the full 10 principles of the Charter, engraved in bronze. Notice the fence—it’s also has X Marks.
    This is the South African National Anthem 🇿🇦

    We visited a market right next to Freedom square and learned more about the food and the culture

    Next stop – The Hector Pieterson Memorial. It is believed that the Soweto Uprising was the beginning of the end of apartheid. This event showed the world the atrocities happening in apartheid South Africa.

    June 19, 1976 – this picture was taken by journalist, Sam Nzima. 12 year old Hector Pieterson was mortally wounded and carried by another student as Hector’s 16 year-old sister ran next to him.
    When the photo was published, it caused outcries from across the globe.

    What was The Soweto uprising?

    The police open fired using real bullets on more than 20,000 black students as they were marching in their school uniforms. They were peacefully protesting the enforcement of teaching in Afrikaans and English for all school subjects. Students could no longer learn in their native languages, like Xhosa and Zulu.

    Where, when, and how it turned violent, nobody knows for certain. We listened to the first hand account of what happened that day in 1976. The story was told to us by Antoinette Sithole, seen here in the picture. Antoinette is Hector’s sister and the girl running beside Hector in the famous picture. Antoinette concluded her story with “forgiveness heals”.

    The Soweto Uprising is remembered today in the museum, which had artifacts /and other first hand accounts from people that were there. The anniversary of Hector’s death is designated Youth Day in South Africa.

    Nelson Mandela’s Home at 8115 Vilakazi Steet in Orlando West from 1945-1961, which is right down the road from Desmond Tutu’s home. I took lots and lots of pictures of all the awards, artifacts and furniture. We saw the tree where they buried their grandchildren’s umbilical cords per African tradition.

    Last stop – we had traditional African food for lunch at a family- run hotel in the suburb of Orlando in Soweto. FYI—Orlando is the home of Trevor Noah.

    Football stadium for the Orlando Pirates.

    We finished the day’s tour with an informational session from our guides and had a welcome dinner. Tomorrow we head north by plane!

    Notes –

    *South Africans drive on the opposite side of the road than we do in the U.S. I keep wanting to enter the bus on the side I am used to!

    *The important mini-bus taxi system is the main way South Africans get around in busy cities. It’s a bit complicated for visitors and requires hand signals! Don’t sit in the front row unless you want to be in charge of the fees for the 16 other passengers.

    *We started taking our malaria pills today.

    *The South African unemployment rate is 33% – essentially 1/3rd of the 62M population are unemployed.

    *Johannesburg is the biggest man made forest.

  • Welcome to July in Jo’burg!🇿🇦

    Welcome to July in Jo’burg!🇿🇦

    We arrived at the O. R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg late morning. Exiting the airport we were greeted by the 9 meter tall bronze statue of Oliver Reginald (O. R.) Tambo—an anti apartheid activist who served as the president of the African National Congress (ANC) from 1967-1991. He was succeeded by Nelson Mandela. Along with Mandela and Arthur Sisulu, he also founded the ANC’s Youth League in 1944.

    We were also greeted by our tour guide, Eric, and our travel expert, Robyn, with Smithsonian Journeys. After a much needed nap (over 30 hours of travels across two nights), we ate dinner at a local place where we’re staying in Rosebank. Rosebank is north of central Johannesburg.

    And now it’s time for a proper night’s sleep and then off to explore Johannesburg—the largest city in South Africa with over 60 million people, 11 official languages, and a culture that has captivated me. I vividly remember when the U.S. Congress enacted the Comprehensive Anti-Apartheid Act of 1986. This act imposed sanctions against South Africa until 5 conditions were met which would end apartheid. I was in high school at the time and went to a conference where they educated us on the anti-apartheid struggle. Tomorrow we have the opportunity to visit Nelson Mandela’s house, the Hector Pieterson Memorial, and then talk with a resident who will share their personal story about the Soweto uprising.

  • And we’re off…again!

    And we’re off…again!

    Last flight. Just 8 more hours. Exhausted but smiling!

    After a (very) brief overnight stay in Dubai, we’re leaving at 4:00 am (again, in the dark) and heading to Johannesburg, South Africa.

    Time to try and get some sleep!😴