Taste testing at Codorniu Winery and exploring their drop dead gorgeous winery, including the underground cellars labyrinth. Codorniu is the oldest family company in Spain and one of the oldest in the world—more than 450 years of history!
Hasta la próxima, Barcelona!
This post is dedicated to two another amazing works by Gaudí, which are also UNESCO World Heritage sites.
I am overdue writing this post as we have been back for a couple of weeks. But the memories of my 3rd time in Barcelona will last forever—as cliche as it sounds, Barcelona is unforgettable.
Let me begin by saying that I haven’t been to Barcelona in 37 years. While a lot has changed (including progress on La Sagrada Familia), there’s so many things that are exactly the same (Gothic Quarter).
Let’s start with La Sagrada Familia, the absolutely breathtaking basilica by the famous architect, Antoni Gaudí. I pulled out the old photo album from my studies in Spain. My first trip to Barcelona was before the Olympics in the early fall 1987. In fact, they were selling Olympic gear at that time and I still have a T-shirt that has the 1992 Summer Olympic emblem—that I bought in 1987! There was a lot of work preparing for those Olympics and that result is still present today.
Here is a picture that I took in the fall ‘87. I wrote next to this picture that it wouldn’t be ready for at least another 70 years. It’s been 37 and they’re now saying no longer than 5. I remember going inside and viewing the model of how it would look when completed. More redesign has been done based on the picture I took. I also remember taking the stairs and going up on another floor inside the church, which we were not allowed to do now. Sadly, I have no pictures inside except the below where I took a picture of the model inside the Basilica.
Let’s move to the inside…
Pictures don’t begin to capture the genius of the Catalán architect and designer, Gaudí, who was part of the Modernista movement. Gaudí’s style is stamped all over Barcelona and his use of architecture, nature, and religion are abundant are trademarks of his work. Last I checked, his masterpiece, La Sagrada Familia, is the most visited monument in España. 🇪🇸
Then I walked up to the altar, knelt down, pointed my camera up, and took the best picture of my life…
I cannot top that so will leave it right there.
Below is my review of the 5-star Caro Hotel that I wrote for Trip Advisor. We would definitely stay here again as there are 26 rooms, all unique, and located within Seu-Xerea neighborhood. 💯 The hotel was once a 14th-century Gothic palace. They build around the history, preserving it from an archeological stand point, and blending it together with a modern design. The mansion was once owned by the Marquis de Caro and is the city’s only designated historical monument hotel. Inside you will find a section of the 12th-century Arab wall of Valencia, mosaics from the 1st century BC, and parts of the Roman Circus (a Roman Circus was an open-air venue used for chariot races and other games).
Trip Advisor Review:
This hotel! One of the top 5 hotels from my travels over the years.
1st— The hotel is riddled with history. And it’s easy to “learn more” by scanning the QR code. There were old perfume vials and remains from a gothic fireplace in our room. You don’t have to leave the hotel to get a history lesson about the incredible city of Valencia.
2nd—Location, location, location. You’re right by Plaza de la Virgen and Plaza de la Reina with La Catedral. It’s quiet yet a few steps and you’re in the heart of the Ciutat Vella.
3rd —The amenities are abundant! We didn’t want for anything. Complimentary snacks and beverages, toiletries for the bathroom, robes/slippers. Sweets to welcome us and then on the bed in the evening. We had our choice of pillows and the bed was quite comfortable.
4th—The people! The staff were exceptional. Shout out to Alejandro who helped us get check in and made reservations for us at the best restaurant for paella—Raco del Turia, a place where the locals eat.
We will definitely be back and I highly recommend for anyone coming to Valencia. Thanks for an amazing stay!!
My advice: When you love a place with your whole heart, don’t wait 37 years to return! Oh, how I have missed you, Valencia.❤️💛❤️
On one hand, it’s so different—bigger, even more vibrant, more modern (duh…that’s what I get for waiting so long). On the other hand, it’s still the same—seeped in rich history, unforgettable architecture, and amazing paella.
I barely had two days here but what a memorable two days they were. We walked everywhere and saw everything we could (in Español): Plaza de la Reina, Plaza de la Virgin, La Catedral de Valencia, Plaza del Mercado, La Lonja de la Seda, La Plaza de Ayuntamiento, Mercado Colon, El Barrio del Carmen, Basílica de la Virgen de los Desamparados…
Plus we went to El Mueso Fallero de Valencia to see the best “ninots” that have been spared by the fire of Las Fallas over the years.
We strolled the Jardín Del Turia, which is a 5.6 mile-long lush green park that used to be the Turia River before it was diverted due to flooding in 1957. (To name a few things) The river bed is the largest urban park in Spain and holds the Palau de la Música, bike paths, refreshment stands, and the otherworldly looking Cuidad de Las Artes y Las Ciencias.
We walked by the former finca (apartment) where I lived with my Spanish family at 17 Reina Don Hermana. I so wish I could find my Spanish family. I believe my madre Española is/was in France.
We drank and ate our share of Valencian favorites—Horchata de chufas, which are tiger nuts grown in nearby Alboraya, con Fartons; Paella Valenciana con pollo y conejo* (Valencia is the birth place of paella); chocolate con churros, patatas bravas, ensalada Valenciana, local wine. I had Fanta Naranja (very different from the Orange Fanta we have in the USA) and forgot to have an orange—which means I need to come back soon because the oranges are to die for. We also had drinks with a friend from my time here. Neither one of us has aged a bit!
*Paella Vaenciana also has snails, which were left out by my request due to an allergy. Here are other ingredients in Paella Valenciana: chicken, rabbit, green beans, rice, saffron, and butter beans. I know there are a few other spices and olive oil.
Hasta luego, Valencia. Ya echo de menos a ti.
Update—got my orange and a mandarin this morning before leaving for Barcelona. Do NOT miss Mercat Central de Valencia (Central Market of Valencia). The most amazing indoor market…hams, fruit, vegetables, spices, paellas, seafood…you name it! I was blown away. I saw a red pepper that dwarfs all other red peppers! The Valencian tomatoes, the white strawberries, the regular strawberries 🍓, the cheeses, oh my…I would be a very happy person starting off my day here each morning.
Pictures below…
It’s been 37 years since I have set foot in extraordinary España 🇪🇸. I have had plenty of opportunities but nothing “felt right”. Deep down I know why—it’s because any trip there will never be the same as it was my sophomore year when I attended the Universitat de Valencia for two semesters. That school year shaped the person I am today. It made me crave cultures—that there were fascinating things to learn about, interesting people to know, and adventures to experience. That year served as the cornerstone of everything I love about travel.
I was stupid…I should have gone by now, more than once. I was “saving” the next time to walk the Camino De Santiago. But now I have the opportunity to return and I couldn’t be more excited!
We land in Barcelona in 8 hours, 45 minutes. Then we drive 3 1/2 hours to Valencia where we will spend 2 days exploring my old stomping grounds. Then back to Barcelona for the next 5 days.
Buckle up…Voy a volver!
I kept a journal when I was in España —this is the inside cover of that diario when I was 19 and 20 years old!
Bon Bini (Welcome in Papiamento) to Curacao as we spent the holidays with family on this beautiful island. We rented a lovely home called Villa Hundu. I would highly recommend for larger families who want privacy and to get away from it all! There is a small tram that takes you down to the bottom where you will find a secluded rocky beach.
We got off to a rough start with 9 of the 10 of us getting the stomach bug. There appears to be a surge in Norovirus across the US. Luckily we were isolated and enjoyed the views as we recovered.
We did venture out some —snorkeling trip to Klein Curacao, exploring Willemstad, Playa Forti…but most of the trip was spent chilling by the pool, trying to feel better, family game nights, and the obligatory family pictures lol (we had a photographer come to the house).
We spent Thanksgiving with our sons in Arizona and did some hiking at Santan Mountain Regional Park. Nothing like 75 degree Fahrenheit weather with no humidity, lots of sunshine and plenty of saguaro cactus 🌵 along the path!
Then on to our nation’s capitol where it was cold and we were lucky to be there the night of the Capitol tree lighting.
The Magna Carta was the first document to put into writing the principle that the king and his government was not above the law. This document shaped our nation by establishing that people can assert their rights against an oppressive ruler and the power of government can be limited to protect those rights. This document sits right below our constitution in the National Archive Museum.
Philanthropist David M. Rubenstein donated the Magna Carta where it’s proudly displayed in its own area. Interesting fact—it was previously owned by H. Ross Perot, who loaned it to the National Archives for decades.
We do a thing…
When I married my husband, his mom handed me a paper map of the U.S.A. It is the kind of map you use to teach a kid the 50 states, letting them color in each one once they have memorized the name and location.
I was told to color in any state I had been to and then continue doing so until I have all 50. I did exactly that, rejoicing each time the map became more and more colorful!
We have rules—you cannot fly over a state to count it. You have to touch down AND step foot on the land in that state. There is some controversy whether you have to leave the airport to qualify or if you can stay in the airport. In my case, I’ve actually left the airport each time. What remains, as of August 30th, is one—North Dakota…the last colorless state on my map!
This past Christmas, my son gave me a mother-son trip over a long weekend. We did something similar a few years back when we went to New York City. He said, “Mom, where do you want to go this time.” I knew where I wanted to go. After a little coaxing, he finally acquiesced. So here we are—Labor Day weekend, and I can soon OFFICIALLY color in North Dakota!
Let the journey begin!
We flew into Minneapolis, rented a car, and started our 4+ hour trek to Fargo, ND. And we saw some big things along the way!
1st stop…
2nd stop…
3rd stop…
4th stop…
The best for last…
While I first stepped foot in North Dakota the evening of August 30th, we went to the Fargo-Moorhead Visitor Center on Saturday morning, August 31st. Today marks the completion of my map…#50! And when North Dakota is the last, you join their “Best for Last” Club 🇺🇸 and receive a certificate and a T-Shirt!
Btw we ran into Benjamin from California again—there’s a geocache by the visitor’s center!
Note about Fargo, ND – founded in 1871, its population is over 133,000 people today. Moorhead, MN is its twin city and together there are over 250,000 residents. Fargo sits on the western bank of the Red River of the North. Today you’ll find North Dakota State University and lots of references to Fargo, an Academy award-winning 1996 movie directed by the Coen brothers. A television show followed in 2014.
Now that I’ve been home over 6 weeks, I thought I’d write a recap about our trip to the breathtaking countries we visited in the continent of Africa. People have asked me which adventure was better — Africa or Antarctica. I can’t answer that because both were so different, but they do share 3 things in common — unbelievable outdoor adventures, amazing animals, and experiences that brought tears to my eyes.
Yes, I have been known to cry when leaving to come home (Hawaii—I am talking about you), but never have I felt such a strong pull toward one place in such a short time. I absorbed every last experience that was this trip. I left a piece of my soul in the places I visited and hope that I will go back one day to reclaim it!
A week after coming home I went to the St. Louis Zoo. Why? It paled in comparison to what I saw in Africa but it was a way to see some beautiful animals. I have been craving that since returning home. It seems strange I am living in a place where there are no dogs barking because the elephants are walking down the street at night, lions looking for their next kill, or baby baboons riding attached to their mommas’ bellies. My surroundings aren’t as nearly as interesting — well we did have both the 13-year AND the 17-year cicadas in June…the first time both emerged together since 1803. And we also had the incredible Northern Lights display back in May—rare for Missouri and simply gorgeous. But the animals! And the stars! And the sunrises and sunsets! Sigh…
Everywhere we went, we could see how much people cared for the land and the animals. Every guide followed the park rules, respected the animals, and stopped to pick up trash when they saw it in the bush.
I wrote reviews on TripAdvisor for all the hotels and a couple of miscellaneous adventures where the people really went above and beyond. Through those reviews, I was able re-live our adventure—plus I have watched the videos a few dozen times.
If you’re asking yourself, “Should I go to Africa?”, don’t think twice…GO!
Africa —you have stolen my heart ❤️. I cannot wait to go back!
Here is a video, compliments of my travel companion and friend, Jen. Enjoy!! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LxZ7YiSOVOFMiD9AC9E4cfL0H7LVOK61/view?usp=sharing
We call ourselves, The Safari Sisters. A group of 4 friends who decided that life is too short to not explore our world with abandon. We started to plan our African adventure about 16 months prior.
Let me back up — the idea for a safari came about when I was “thinking” about going to Antarctica. I asked my friend, Laura, if she’d like to join me. She said “Sure, if you come on a safari with me!”. That was an easy answer. When we returned from Antarctica, we started planning the next month.
After doing a lot of research (I was obsessed with planning the perfect trip!), we decided that trying to figure out an itinerary on our own was nearly impossible. Therefore, each of us talked about what we wanted to do while on the continent of Africa – Victoria Falls, game drives, a walking safari, a real safari “lodge”, lots of elephants, cultural and educational experiences. Then we started to explore travel companies who could give us all of the above! It wasn’t too long into our search that Smithsonian Journeys caught our eye, and in particular, the tour called African Safari: A Wildlife Adventure
Here is the itinerary as described on their website. B = Breakfast included, etc. I can say now that we’re back we had the small group they promised (14 people + our tour director and our expert) and the itinerary below doesn’t do the trip justice. It was more than we expected. In fact, we pinched ourselves throughout the trip as it felt like we were living in a dream!
Day 1 — Depart the U.S. for Johannesburg, South Africa
Day 2 — Johannesburg
Arrive in Johannesburg and transfer to the leafy Rosebank suburb, where you’ll check in early to your hotel. If you arrive in the morning, breakfast will be available for you. The remainder of the day is unscheduled so that you can rest and relax and get to know some of the trendy neighborhoods within this diverse metropolis known as the “City of Gold.” (B)
Day 3 — Johannesburg and Soweto
Meet your fellow travelers this morning and embark on a full-day tour of Soweto, a historic Black township known for its student uprising against the apartheid government in 1976. See the home of Nobel laureate Archbishop Desmond Tutu, and tour the Mandela House, the Soweto home where Nelson Mandela lived during his rise as an anti-apartheid activist. At the moving Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum, learn more about the struggle against apartheid and the Soweto uprising. Then hear stories from a Soweto resident who was present during the uprising. Tonight, enjoy a welcome dinner. (B,L,D)
Day 4 — Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Fly to Livingstone, Zambia, then cross into Zimbabwe and settle into your elegant lodge in the town of Victoria Falls. Set on the border of the two countries, the falls were first documented in 1855 by explorer David Livingstone, who promptly claimed them for Queen Victoria. Experience the power of this tremendous waterfall, created as the Zambezi River drops more than 350 feet into a narrow chasm. (B,D)
Day 5 — Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve
Set off on a morning wildlife drive in Victoria Falls Private Game Reserve, home to the “Big Five” and many other species. This former hunting concession is now known for its conservation programs. Learn about the successes of its black rhino breeding program—and the challenges of fighting poaching—as you search out these endangered and elusive animals. Late this afternoon, embark on a “sundowner” dinner cruise on the Zambezi River. (B,D)
Day 6 — Victoria Falls
Take in views of the waterfall on a guided tour of the Victoria Falls Bridge, a steel bridge opened in 1905. Walk the catwalks and learn about the construction and significance of the bridge, which was intended by Cecil Rhodes to be part of a larger Cape Town to Cairo railway line. The afternoon is yours to relax at the lodge and enjoy its pool and gardens. Tonight, gather for a lecture by a guest speaker on “The Story of David Livingstone.” (B,D)
Day 7 — Chobe National Park, Botswana
Journey by motorcoach to Botswana this morning, and head toward Chobe National Park, which boasts one of the largest concentrations of wildlife in all of Africa. After a leisurely lunch at your lodge, set sail on the Chobe River on a wildlife cruise, watching for elephants, hippos, crocodiles, some of the park’s 450 species of birds (including sacred ibis, carmine bee-eaters, fish eagles, and kingfishers). Enjoy the sunset on the river and return to the lodge for dinner tonight. (B,L,D)
Days 8-9 — Chobe National Park
Chobe National Park covers 7,270 square miles of diverse terrain that harbors an exceptional array of wildlife, including the world’s largest elephant population (some 120,000), as well as zebras, lions, giraffes, impalas, wildebeests, and buffalo. Spend two full days discovering the park and its biodiversity on early morning wildlife drives and afternoon boat safaris. During your downtime between wildlife outings, enjoy the amenities of the lodge. (B,L,D daily)
Day 10 — South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
A morning flight brings you to Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, a vast and unspoiled stretch of woodlands and plains along the Luangwa River. Settle into your stunning lodge, nestled amid mahogany and ebony trees within the park, and encounter the area’s abundant fauna on an afternoon open-vehicle wildlife drive or a walking safari—or from the lodge’s deck, which overlooks two lagoons that draw a steady stream of animals. (B,L,D)
Days 11-12 — South Luangwa National Park
Covering some 3,500 square miles, South Luangwa National Park was established in 1972 but long overlooked thanks to its remote location. Today it boasts one of Africa’s highest concentrations of wildlife, including unusual finds like Zambia’s endemic Crawshay’s zebra, the elusive bushbuck, and the spiral-horned kudu; as well as some 400 bird species, wild dogs, giraffes, lions, leopards and much more. Enjoy two full days to discover the park and its inhabitants on morning, daytime, and nocturnal safaris with seasoned rangers.
You’ll also have the opportunity to go on guided walking safaris—an intimate and exhilarating experience that spotlights lesser-known flora and fauna; meet children at a local school; and visit a borehole project that provides water for the community. On your final evening, gather for a festive farewell dinner at the lodge. (B,L,D, daily)
Days 13-14 — Lusaka/Depart for home
Travel by light aircraft today to Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, where you’ll have a day room to rest before your overnight flight back to the U.S. (B)
We did all of the above AND MORE. For example, in Victoria Falls we had the opportunity to visit an elephant sanctuary and feed these incredible rescues. We also took a helicopter tour over Victoria Falls to see a different perspective from the air. While at the Chobe Marina Lodge, we took a morning trip to Impalila Island on Namibia. And, the spa in Mfuwe Lodge sits at the end of a hippo pond! From the educational front, Robyn Keene-Young gave 4 different presentations about the wildlife. She’s one of the main reasons why we choose Smithsonian – we wanted to have an expert so that we can truly understand what we’re seeing, hearing, and experiencing.
Thank you Smithsonian and Odysseys Unlimited – you made this trip magical!
Some of you have asked for this—so here it is!
Safari is a Swahili word that means journey or expedition and is from “Safara”, an Arabic word that means “travel”. It’s been used in our English language since the late 19th century.
Per our guide, it’s used when you “camp”. What we did wasn’t actually a safari—it was game viewing / game drives.
Whatever you want to call it, I had to pack for it. So for the sake of this post, I will call it a safari.
One thing you’ll find when packing for a safari is that you need to plan! If you will be traveling on smaller airplanes, there are limitations on the type of suitcases (soft-sided duffle vs regular suitcase) and weight (we were allowed 33 pounds for checked luggage and 13 pounds for carry on). This makes packing extremely important (and difficult). I was one of four friends going on this trip so I had three people I consulted with as well. 
Another important thing to remember—you can wash your clothes! Or, depending on where you stay, send them out to be washed (and it’s fairly inexpensive). One couple on the tour brought 3 outfits each and cycled through them, using the lodge’s laundry. They also had disposable cotton underwear. Bottom line, you have to do what’s right for you. For example, my Oofos were a must bring!
We received guidance from Smithsonian Institute / Odyssey Tours (more on them in a separate post. Spoiler Alert—they were fantastic) but I also did my own research and made revisions the week before travel due to warmer than anticipated forecasted weather.
Our safari was in July—winter in the Southern Hemisphere where it’s chilly in the morning and evening, but warms up during the day. Most days we’re in the 80s (Fahrenheit). Layers are the name of the packing game!
Also, I tend to be an over-packer. Therefore, I packed for this trip over 10 months—gathering things here and there as safari colors aren’t a staple in my wardrobe. Important that you do wear the right colors on the actual game drives. I avoided really dark colors like black and blue because of the tsetse flies, and found it easier to go with safari colors for the full wardrobe. Everything went with everything – Greens, khakis, light blue and browns.
I was on Safari for a total of 16 days (including travel time). We started in Johannesburg for the first 2 1/2 days, and then spent 3 days in each of these countries—Zimbabwe-Victoria Falls, Botswana- Chobe National Park (with a day trip to Namibia), and Zambia- South Luangwa National Park.
Here’s my packing list, along with commentary. I’ve posted links to some clothes or similar ones. By the way, I don’t get paid for posting any of these links. I’m simply sharing what worked for me. Every safari is unique based on a variety of factors (time of year, location, hotel/lodge vs camping, etc) so guidance from your tour operator is important!
Plane clothes
We went to Chicago a day ahead of our international flight to make sure we were there. I have been victim to canceled flights so we didn’t want any issues. Therefore, I had 3 sets of airplane clothes:
STL—>Chicago:
• Brown cotton sleeveless dress (Z-Supply has the best here—soft, cotton, and comfy). They no longer have the brown color but here’s the style). I wore this same outfit on the last night when we had a going away dinner celebration under the stars.
• Lightweight Free People cream cotton cardigan sweater. I can’t find a picture of this sweater, but it’s perfect for chilly nights as well as air conditioning on the plane.
• Latte Brown Leather Naot (Kayla) sandals – these are the best! I wore them on many casual occasions—hanging around the lodge and for dinner.
• I also threw in two colorful scarves that I wore with other outfits at night and brought one on the plane as well.
Chicago—>Dubai:
• XCVI green flowy pants (doesn’t look like the green ones are in stock but these are my favorite travel pants)
• White long sleeved gauze top (super soft and 100% cotton)
• Tank (khaki)
• ON Sneakers (Cloudnova in neutral colors)
• Oofos in the Nomad color (I wore these as slippers, around the lodge, with shorts, and on the plane…love these at home too!)
Dubai—>Johannesburg, South Africa (after we showered and changed into an outfit we had stuffed in our carryon).
• Winter white lightweight cotton sweater from O’Neill
• Cream Tank
• ON sneakers
• Oofos sandals (brought in backpack)
I was right at 33 pounds checked bag and 13 pounds carry on. Whew! Coming home I was around 38 pounds (souvenirs! Or as they say “curios”).
Checked luggage – again I had to use a soft sided duffel. I got the Adventure Duffle from LL Bean with my initials embroidered on the side. It doesn’t look like they have the color I bought (soft spruce) but there are many other colors. I could’ve done wheels but again that it just adds weight. I was a tad nervous about hauling that bag around but since we were on a tour, the bags were collected for us. Where I had to carry it, I just dragged it from the handle on the end.
• TSA approved travel lock
• AirTag buried within my clothes
• Luggage tag (from the tour company)
• Dryer sheets – I kept a few in a plastic bag to ward off any smells that could occur in my luggage
• I used packing cubes for everything. That way I could only pull out what I needed. I know that many people roll their clothes, but I’ve never gotten into the habit.
• A few plastic grocery bags. I don’t like using plastic, but very handy for soiled or wet clothes/shoes on your way home.
• Dirty laundry bag
Shoes and Clothes-
Shoes – 4 pairs
• ON sneakers – my favs! And I found them in a neutral color.
• Sandals (Naot) – evenings and walking around. Good orthotics and looks nice! I wore with skirts as well as shorts/pants. See above for link.
• Ofoos Flip flops (see link above) – good for walking around the lodges and in the airplane. Super comfortable – like a pillow for your feet (but no strap on the back). They are also waterproof. The only time we needed waterproof shoes was around Victoria Falls. Many of the group wore Keen, Merrill or Teva sandals. I probably should’ve brought better water shoes, but I love my Oofos (did I say that already?? 😊) and like to have open-toed shoes on the airplane.
• Eddie Bauer Cairn Mid Hiking Boots in driftwood color – wore them only on the game drives and walking safari. If you don’t want to bring boots, you could wear sneakers on the game drives because you don’t get out of the vehicle. But they are warm, waterproof and comfortable for the game drives and supportive for walking safaris in the bush.
Undergarments
• Underwear – I brought 10 pair but didn’t need to. I paid for laundry at every place we went and the last place did our laundry for free.
• Bras – 5, including two sports bras for bumpy vehicles while out on game drives. Additionally, I thought I could get by with 4, but it was pretty hot and I needed different bras for tank tops as well as sports bras.
• Socks – 3 low and 4 to wear with boots. I could’ve gotten by with 3 boot socks.
• Fuzzy socks – one for the airplane and another pair in my checked luggage. I could’ve gotten by with just one pair and kept them in my carry-on.
Layering Outerwear
• LL Bean Green Fleece – a must for layering (see link above).
• Khaki REI fleece – an alternative to the green fleece. These get dusty on game drives this time of year. When I had one out to wash, I could wear the other one. I used these at night for jackets at dinner too.
• Eddie Bauer Green vest – looks very cool for a safari but I didn’t need it! I wore over T-Shirts and long sleeved T-Shirts a couple of times. I don’t have a link because I’ve had this one for years.
• Green Kuhl Rain Coat (Outsider – Sage color) – a must for layering. This was my outer layer and was wind proof. It’s also waterproof but it didn’t rain when we were there.
• Gloves – used on all morning game drives. A must this time of the year.
• Buff/Gator – used on all morning game drives for warmth and also to keep me from inhaling dust.
Other Safari Gear
Green Tilley hat – the best!! I wouldn’t have done the trip without it. It’s packable, washable, and protects from the sun.
Straw Hat – I wore once and left in Chobe…it itched terribly.
Baseball cap – wore once but didn’t really need because I wore the Tilley.
School Supplies – we visited a school in Zimbabwe and brought school supplies.
Sunglasses!! I brought two pairs of Goodrs (it was recommended to bring two in case you lose one). Both were in safari colors.
Pants/Shorts – In addition to those I wore on the plane (and also at dinner):
• LL Bean Ripstop Pull On Pants. This brand doesn’t fail! You cannot go wrong with any LL Bean pants. My friend wore the pants that zipped off to shorts. Mine didn’t zip off but had an elastic waist with a tie string. They were comfortable!
• Prana Koen khaki pants – most comfortable light weight pants.
• Lululemon green cargo pants – could have done without. I wore once.
• Kuhl Freeflex roll up green pants – perfect pants for game drives and travel days. Very comfy.
• Orvis Explorer Ankle Pants – these were for dinners but I probably didn’t need them. It was nice to have something that didn’t look like I was going on a game drive. 
• Dark Green leggings – didn’t wear and didn’t need to bring
• LL Bean Green Hiking Shorts – this was a last minute add due to the weather forecast. While I didn’t wear them for the game drives, I wore them in between the drives, when we went shopping, when we had the elephant encounter, and the helicopter ride. I wish I would have brought another pair of shorts and removed a couple pair of pants. Super comfy and light weight. I even washed them in the shower and they dried fast!
Long Sleeve Shirts
• Kuhl Khaki Kamp – loved this one
• Orvis tidewater blue long sleeve cotton T-shirt – casual and good for layering
• J Crew Factory Cotton Teddie Sweater in light khaki – wore for dinners with pants. This was a good staple. (I brought a few lightweight sweaters with me and I probably could’ve narrowed it down and eliminated one or two, but not this one!
• J Crew Factory Classic Cotton Cardigan Sweater. The link doesn’t have the olive color that I bought. I wore a green/white stripped tank top with it from Garnet Hill.
• Orvis blue checked long sleeve shirt – I don’t believe they have this anymore, but it’s very similar to the Kuhl shirt I listed above with the link. Light weight and SPF protection and the sleeves roll up. It’s a lighter blue.
• Free Fly Long sleeve fleece sweatshirt – this was great on those morning game drives when it was cold! I have been impressed with this brand—comfortable lightweight bamboo cotton pullover crew.
• Light weight khaki v-neck cardigan sweater from Quince – wore for dinners with a tank top under. I don’t see my sweater on the site, but the link above will take you to their sweaters.
• LL Bean Green Long sleeve soft top (SPF)
• Beyond Yoga brown long sleeve top – didn’t wear but I love this brand. Soft soft soft!
• Tan gauze button down – wore for dinners with pants
T-shirts / Tanks
Note—I could have done with 3-4 T-shirts (cream, white, green) vs the 5 I brought. I wouldn’t have changed the tank tops as I wore them under tops/sweaters. Also, I stayed neutral but it’s ok to do other colors (blue, light pink) to wear with shorts during the day):
• Onno green T-shirt – wore for game drives in the afternoon and also under the sweatshirt. I really love this brand
• Garnet Hill White and Cream T-Shirts (2)
• V neck T-Shirts (2) – cream and white (ones I had)
• Tanks (4) – Z Supply Khaki Tank, White and Canvas Heather (cream) Tanks from PRANA (these are my favorite!) + two others I already had. I wear tanks under most everything.
Lounge/PJs
• Pajamas – I wore the Beyond Yoga pants and long sleeved top with a white tank. While it’s really not pajamas, the Featherweight brand is so soft and the perfect weight for sleeping.
• Yoga pants in birch Heather and matching top for lounging from Beyond Yoga
Dinners
I didn’t find it necessary to dress for dinner but it was fun when we had time to shower and change. In addition to the long brown dress I wore on the plane, here is the other two skirts I brought:
• At Earthbound Trading Company I found a reversible Sari wrap skirt. I wore it with the with tan v-neck sweater / green sweater. I could have left it at home but it was light weight.
• Multi colored cotton skirt – I found this at Buckle and wore one warm evening with the tan cardigan, cream tank, and Naot sandals. (Cannot find the link!)
Swimsuit – I brought it but didn’t wear it. Since the nights are chilly, the pools were cold! Plus we didn’t have time.
Carryon backpack – I used the Patagonia Ultralight Black Hole 27L nylon backpack that can be worn as a backpack or carried like a tote. It was perfect.
• Luggage tag (from tour company)
• AirTag
• Light weight blanket (from Cocoon) – didn’t use as the plane had blankets and pillows
• Day backpack in army green from Amazon. 3 people in our party had the same one so I tied a bandana on the top. This folds up into a little pouch and I used on every game drive to carry my binoculars, phone, battery pack, etc.
• Eye cover (didn’t use), fuzzy socks
• Neck pillow for plane. I brought one but left in Johannesburg. The seats on the long haul flights curve around the neck.
• HydraPak water bottle – I didn’t use it once. Because we were on a tour, they made sure we had water everywhere we went. The last lodge gave us a reusable water bottle to use when there. Luckily the HydraPak collapsed and I could just keep it in the backpack. It’s a cool water bottle and I’ll use it at home. 
• Money belt with passport, extra pictures in case I lost my passport, copy of passport, money, two credit cards, driver’s license and insurance card. I did not use the money belt. It stayed in my backpack. I had everything above in my Crossbody purse and I used that everywhere I went. The passport was kept us safe at every hotel/lodge.
• Small Kipling Crossbody purse, which I have had for years. This was a last-minute add. I’m so glad I brought it because it was more comfortable than the money belt. I should have left the money belt at home.
• iPhone in a Walli case with a strap that goes around the neck. The strap around the neck was a lifesaver and worked well on the game drive so I could be hands-free. The Walli case also has a pocket where you can keep a couple credit cards and a finger strap that can be used to prop up your phone like a kickstand.
• I brought a waterproof case that I slid my entire phone into when we went to Victoria Falls so that it would not get wet.
• Kindle
• Earbuds – I did not need them. On every flight, they gave us headphones and I was too busy to use headphones during the trip. I could’ve left these at home.
• Charger cords – my iPhone, Kindle, and Apple Watch all use the same USB-C charger. Not many places we went use the USB-C so you may want to bring a little piece that converts your USB-C to USB-A.
• Adapter for the countries we were going to in Africa. Here’s the one I bought from Amazon and it worked well in the countries we visited.
• Curling iron – it has dual voltage so no converter needed.
• Portable battery – this was a must! There are many times that I took so many pictures I was running out of battery so I always had my battery pack with me.
• Bluetooth dongle for plane to watch movies – again, didn’t need it.
• Eye glass cleaner cloth
• Head lamp – I didn’t use this once and could have left at home.
• Two pairs of reading glasses.
• Make up – very little but enough to make me feel put together when I needed it.
• Tweezers and a small grooming scissors. Make sure this goes into your checked luggage outside of the U.S.
• Hair ties, scrunchies and brush
• Wipes / hand sanitizer
• Pen
• Safety pins
• Medicine – a friend and I split the medication. For example, she brought Tylenol and I brought Advil. We also brought Imodium AD, Pepto, and Mucinex. All medication was in the original packaging or prescription bottle (like our Malaria drug. The four of us took our malaria pill every day at lunch. I also brought some hydration pills —which came in handy for dehydration (gave some to those in our group).
• Jewelry – very little and nothing of value. I brought an extra watchband, casual/inexpensive necklace, silicon ring, couple of beaded bracelets. I bought a few beaded/stone bracelets when I was there, and I wore them a lot as well.
• Binoculars – these are a must! Get a good pair. You will use these on every game drive. Click above to see the ones I bought and they worked great.
• Toiletry bag – everything was travel size (3.4 ounces or less) and fit into a reusable clear plastic case—ie deodorant, tooth brush, toothpaste (brought two travel sized), facial cleanser, face lotion, sunscreen, eye cream, Listerine (two travel sized), razor, shampoo/ conditioner, QTips, lip moisturizer, shower gel, etc. A note about shower liquid soap – Every place we went had it except the last place. They had bar soap. Luckily, I had stuck a travel sized body wash in my bag and used it there. This is simply my preference.
• Bug spray – travel sized. My friend carried this for the both of us. I didn’t spray it once but another friend used it every evening. We also used mosquito nets every night and the lodges spray really well. I saw a couple of mosquitos and believe I was bitten. However, this is a good time of year since it’s quite dry—the rainy season brings more bugs! (And snakes)
• Travel sized Poopouri – I had a roommate so better to spray 💩
Note—we sent our clothes to be laundered throughout the safari. One place did our clothes for free. Two of my friends brought washing sheets so you could actually wash your clothes when you were in the shower and then hang them to dry.
I think that’s it! I’m happy to answer any questions you may have so feel free to reach out.
(more…)
Well…as they say, all good things must come to an end. I never understood that and still don’t. It’s been a phenomenal trip. A trip of a lifetime. A continent, countries, and people that were incredible in every way. I will continue to make a few additional posts with some amazing videos/pictures and also some details specific to this tour. 
I have fallen in love with Zambia — the park, the people, the animals, and Mfuwe Lodge. Two more game drives today with a spa appointment in the middle – the spa is unbelievable! (More below)
Let’s start with the morning drive. Up at 5:00 am and left by 6:00 am.
What we came across first was a lion kill. There were 15 lions of the same pride eating an African Buffalo they had killed sometime during the night. I have videos—but it’s not for the faint of heart. It’s nature in action.
That was a sobering moment for us all. What we came across next was even more so…one of the leopards also made a kill—a baby waterbuck. He had it under the tree with him. The sad part was the momma Waterbuck was calling for it but keeping her distance from the leopard. We saw this first thing in the morning. When we went back late afternoon, the momma was still there giving her alarm call/snort.
On a much lighter note, here are some other amazing views from today.☀️
Afternoon break at the incredible spa! The spa is situated at the edge of a hippo pond.
I will be “making a plan” to come back to Africa as soon as possible.
The wake up call was early (5:00 am) but we had to be ready for breakfast by 5:30. Since it was dark, we were walked to the lodge by a watchman. We then ate and left at 6:00 am.
It took about an hour but we found a place free from lions to do our walking safari. We brought along a scout, Kesius, who has a rifle. This is required on all walking safaris.
The hour+ trek allowed us to explore nature that is difficult to see when you’re in a vehicle. Things like—animal tracks, termites, nests, trees/bushes, lots of dung and what the animals eat! We heard the lions roaring so went to find them in the jeep.
So we went in search of the lions and here is all we saw!
And we found them!
In this particular area, there is a Pride of 17 lions — two males and rest female and cubs. Here’s one of the males.
We also had a surprise for brunch—a picnic overlooking the hippos!
Because we booked this tour through Smithsonian Institute, there were 4 lectures over the course of the trip that Robyn Keene-Young provided. The one this afternoon was about the sounds animals make. It was interesting to identify an animal by its sound—and learn what the different sounds mean (warning call, territorial, etc).
This afternoon was another game drive at 4 pm and what a drive it was! It started with us having to wait for 500+ African buffalo to cross the road. As one of our guides says, these fellows look at you like you owe them money!
Add on zebras, giraffes, impalas, lovebirds, hippos, warthogs, Vervet monkeys, a whole lot of beautiful trees like the Tamarind, Baobob, and Sausage Trees! It’s interesting to see how the impalas have a friendship with the baboons.
After sundowner and we admired the colors of the sunset, the sky turned dark and was filled with so many stars and a crescent moon. Then it was time for the night game drive to look for those nocturnal animals—and we found a few more tonight: Scrub hare, civit cat, lion, and a few leopards.
And let’s end with the story of the lion. He walked right beside the jeep, at night, as calm as ever. What an amazing animal!
One more note I’d like to point out — our guides were outstanding. They’re highly trained for years before they become a guide. They are skilled in the animals and their behavior, in fact, they are highly skilled in all the floral and fauna of the area. They follow the rules of the park, value the safety of their clients, and the safety of the animals. They are environmental conscious and I saw them stop the vehicle to pick up trash more than once. To say they’re impressive is an understatement.
We were up before dawn, 4:15 am to be exact, to start the last leg of our trip from Botswana to Zambia! Here’s the route:
1. 15 minute drive (via bus) to the border, dipping our shoes/tires (being cautious about Foot-and-Mouth disease). Exit Botswana and enter Zambia.
2. Drive another 30 minutes to Livingstone, Zambia and take a 40 minute flight from Livingstone International Airport to Lusaka (the capitol).
3. Wait an hour
4. Take another 40 minute flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe.
5. Finally, a 40 minute drive to the Mfuwe Lodge located within the South Luangwa National Park.
Some facts about Zambia-
*The country is really doing well! Lots of farmers migrated from Zimbabwe to Zambia and farming has boomed!
*Zambia’s official language is English, which is used in education and business. The main local languages are Bemba, Nyanja / Chewa, Tonga, and Lozi.
*The currency is the Zambian Kwacha
*We are staying at the South Luangwa National Park, which is 9,050 sq km in size.
*Our lodge is the Mfuwe Lodge (part of the Bush Camp Company) and it’s simply incredible. The people are amazing! They knew our names within the hour. There are no fences around the property so the animals can roam freely. At night, we need a watchman to take us to our room. We are NOT allowed to leave our rooms at night alone as we could find ourselves face-to-face with a lion or another predator. There are no phones and no WiFi in the rooms. All 18 rooms are named after an animal found in the park. I can stand on my balcony and admire the hippos, listen to the lions roar, and hear the elephants trumpet throughout the night. There is air conditioning but there are also fans and screens. Sleeping last night was extremely pleasant!
We had our first game drive from 4-7 with our local guides, Alec and Francis. Because the sun sets at around 5:30 ish, our drive included a night time viewing after sunset for those nocturnal animals! (One of the guides had a spotlight to look for those nocturnal animals. No light is shone on the non-nocturnal animals and very briefly on the nocturnal ones).
Highlights:
We took a sundowner 1/2 way though, had some refreshments, and watched the sun set over the South Luangwa River while the hippos grunted and moaned (sounds like a cow’s moo). They do this when they’re marking their territory.
We are walking amongst the trees! It’s an incredible lodge and as my friend, Jen, said, it’s like we were the Swiss Family Robinson.
We heard this lodge was built to be a timeshare. It never took off so now it’s a successful lodge. Comfortable rooms with mosquito nets and a separate living area. Bathroom has all the amenities you need – shampoo, shower soap, mosquito repellent, vanity kit, bar soap, etc.
Pictures do not do this lodge justice. You have to see it to understand how special it is but here are a few!
Only 10 minutes from the Chobe National Park, it also has its own boat dock. Therefore, the two times we left by boat we simply had to walk down the ramp!
We ate all meals here. I enjoyed the salad bar — I know it was chancing it with my stomach but they clean the food very well. I used bottled water when brushing my teeth, though. Meals were good and some were better than others. The stir fry night was outstanding as was the BBQ out by the pool. The people were so gracious, kind, and helpful! In fact, ALL the people we encountered in Botswana were extremely welcoming…especially Hero, our boat/vehicle local guide with African Odyssey. Hero, thank you for making our game drives so unique and memorable.
We had a balcony and could watch the warthogs, banded mongoose, and vervet monkey on the grounds. We always saw the sun set from Chobe National Park but the after effects and the colors stayed in the sky and we admired it from our balcony.
I would come back to Chobe Marina Lodge! In a heartbeat.
(Pictures soon – I don’t have great WiFi right now)
We spent the afternoon (3:00-6:20) on another game drive in Chobe National Park. And what a game drive it was! We ran into a lion, lionesses, and their cubs. More than once. And the second time, we almost ran into her when we were on a break and out of the car! The driver said very quickly, “Get in the car right now!” She was on the other side of the trees. We followed this lioness for a while as she stalked her prey—an impala. She was intensely focused.
Side note—it’s the lioness that is really the “king” of the jungle. She has the babies, cares for them, and hunts. They live in prides and the lionesses and their girl cubs will stay together for life. When a boy cub is around 3, they get kicked out of the pride to go find their own pride (and avoid inbreeding). Lions live around 10 years and lionesses up to 15 years and can have up to 4 babies at a time! Speaking of babies—we watched 3 of them playing together. The definition of cute!🥰
Unfortunately, the day prior we saw a baby elephant that was sick. He had something wrong with his leg and walked with a limp and what appeared to be an abscess on his bum. Very sad as our guide said he won’t live out the week. He will be easy target for lions and other predators.
The Elephants🩶 — playing, bathing, caring for their calves, trumpeting. I could watch the elephants for hours, for days…they are fascinating. Their behaviors, their culture, their elegance while swimming, the way they bathe and protect themselves from the sun. They may be #1 of the Big 5 for me. In Chobe they are around every corner—every few feet in some cases!
But let’s not forget about the kudus—the males with their stately antlers and white stripes; the Impalas-the McDonald’s of the animal kingdom in Chobe as we saw hundreds!; the Zebras – not as dominant here but we may not have been in the right place at the right time; the Sables—another antelope with prominent antlers and more rare to see; a whole bunch of Guinea fowl; Giraffes —who seemed the most skittish around our vehicles; Hippos – lazily laying on the river front; Crocs—also being lazy on the river front; Baboons—what can I say, we descended from them and they are awesome!; Vervet monkeys-the cutest little faces but they bite; African Buffalo—one particular older male didn’t like it we drove by so we bolted!; Leopard—got the “tail” end; Fish Eagle—reminds me of the majestic American Eagle; and a whole lot of birds that I need to look up.
And then there’s the sunrises and sunsets. I am not sure which is prettier and it’s like a competition, with each one more stunning than the next. During our time in Kasane, Botswana, we saw two sunrises and 3 sunsets. I will never forget them.
Here’s the safari vehicles and how they stack up:
• In Zimbabwe – Land Cruiser – smooth and very comfortable
• In Botswana – Nissan Hard Body – not as smooth but still comfy
• Upcoming in Zambia – Land Rover
Tomorrow it’s on to a new country and another adventure as we start the last leg of our trip—Zambia! It involves a 40 minute drive (via bus) to the border, dipping our shoes/tires, and then a 40 minute flight from Livingstone International Airport in Livingstone, Zambia to Lusaka (the capitol). Another 40 minute flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe. Finally, a 40 minute drive to the Mfuwe Lodge located within the South Luangwa National Park.
Facebook Reel from this afternoon:
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/ahowq2HaZZjWAfJ1/?mibextid=WC7FNe
After sleeping in until 6:30 😮, we started our day by boat—we went to an island called Impalila, which is in the African country of Namibia right on the Chobe River. After getting stamps in our passports, we were met by our guide, David, a Namibian resident from the Masubia Tribe.
While we were there we visited the Kawela village and saw how the tribe lives in the traditional ways (there are roughly 30 tribes on the island). There are only 15 or so cars on the island and electricity didn’t make its appearance until about 5 years ago. Interesting, the president has a house in the island, which he uses as needed when visiting.
Here’s some other interesting tidbits:
*Mabuka vule – how are you greeting
*The languages are siLozi and Subiya.
*The island is 12 km long and 6 km in width. There are about 2,500 people who live on the island.
I am writing this a day late but we have been busy! On the afternoon of July 7th we did our second game drive in Chobe National Park. FYI- each drive has lasted 3-3.5 hours. While the morning game drives start out very cold (gloves, fleece, jackets, gators), they finish warm. The afternoon drives start warm (shorts, t-shirt), and they finish chilly!
This afternoon we saw lots more elephants, birds, impala (which they call McDonald’s for the M on their rear, and also because they’re on every corner), and at the end…we caught sight of a leopard, which rounds out The Big 5.
First a word about the elephants—the elephants are Kalahari elephants, the largest kind, and there are estimated to be 120,000 of them in Chobe. After seeing all the elephants around every corner, at the river, crossing the road, in the bush…I don’t doubt it! they are magnificent.
Also, I cannot get over the sunsets here. The colors in the sky last forever. The oranges and reds—this would never get old!
Between the game drives, we had a phenomenal conversation today from our Smithsonian expert, Robyn Keene-Young. She talked about the upcoming documentary they made for PBS on three big cats living together—lions, cheetah, and leopards. The documentary will come out this fall.
That evening we had a BBQ dinner at Chobe Marina Lodge (more about the lodge later) and I fell asleep before my head hit the pillow!
Christina’s Journey Journal 