Tag: Drake Passage

  • Looking back (Part 1)

    Looking back (Part 1)

    I had a scary medical event happen to me this past holiday season. While I am fine now, it left me reflecting on how grateful I am for my family, friends, and this wonderful life we have the privilege of living.

    Then there’s the gratitude I have for travel. The kind of gratitude that settles deep in your bones and aches when you are not experiencing it. Travel has taught me two truths.

    1️⃣ This world is breathtakingly big and endlessly beautiful. The more I see, the more I realize how much there is still waiting — mountains I haven’t climbed (figuratively!), streets I haven’t wandered, languages I haven’t heard in real life. The world feels expansive and alive. And I want to experience as much of it as I can before I leave this Earth.

    2️⃣ I am who I am because I travel. Because I said yes to unfamiliar places. Because I stood in nature that made me feel small in the best possible way. I have been stretched by cultures very different from my own.

    Travel has shaped my perspectives, strengthened my resilience, and widened my heart ♥️ so much so that it aches when I don’t travel for a while. It has been a teacher, a mirror, and a gift. Every journey has left something in me that nobody can take away — humility, curiosity, wonder, and growth.

    And perhaps the greatest realization of all is this: I don’t travel to escape my life. I travel to become more fully myself.

    And maybe that’s why this blog began in the first place.

    I started writing here just before I left for Antarctica in 2022, on the edge of one of the most extraordinary adventures of my life. At the time, I thought I was documenting something new. But what I’ve come to realize is that Antarctica wasn’t the beginning. There are pieces of me scattered across the globe and the frozen South Pole was simply the continuation of a story that had already been unfolding for years.

    What’s missing are the chapters that shaped me long before that icy horizon came into view, the journeys that stretched me, surprised me, and quietly transformed me.

    So in this next series of posts, I’m going back.

    In each one, I’ll share three of my favorite adventures. Not just where I went, but what the journey gave me.

    Because if travel is how I’ve become myself, then these are the stories that built me.

    Some of the pictures were taken before the invention of the iPhone. I used an actual camera 😜 or took a picture of the picture from a photo album…imagine that! I gave up on those a long time ago. Occasionally, I still put together a Shutterfly book, but now that I have this website, it’s difficult to focus on more than one medium.

    My goal in writing these stories is simple: to capture memories in a way that allows me to return to them—to relive the best of the best and never forget the lessons I learned, the people who changed me, and the cultures that expanded my heart and mind.

    Maybe one day my family will stumble upon these words and find something meaningful in them. Maybe a great-great grandchild will think it’s incredible that their ancestor survived 25-foot waves in the Drake Passage, slept beside penguins in Antarctica, and stood under a purple sunset in the Atlas Mountains.

    Maybe someone will laugh at how long it once took to fly from the United States to Japan — back when we flew across oceans instead of beaming across them.

    Or maybe these posts will drift quietly in some corner of digital purgatory, unread and untouched.

    But even then, they will have done their job. Because they will have helped me remember. And remembering is its own kind of journey

    Here are 3 of my favorite travel stories:

    #1 – Morocco’s Sahara Desert

    April 1988

    I finally had to take a picture of the original photograph — the one that has been pinned to bulletin boards and reframed in different seasons of my life.

    April 1988. I’m standing in the Sahara Desert, wearing a sorority T-shirt and a tagelmust, a little sunburned, carefree, and completely unaware that this trip would mark me forever.

    How lucky was I to be in Northern Africa for spring break!

    I was studying in Valencia, Spain for my sophomore university year, and a few of us scraped together the last of our discretionary funds and signed up for a Mundo Joven bus tour to Morocco. It felt spontaneous. Slightly reckless. Absolutely irresistible.

    That trip had everything — adventure, history, nature, romance, intrigue, and just enough danger to make it unforgettable. I bought a pair of harem-style pants. I laughed with our fellow travelers. I tasted couscous for the first time. I negotiated in crowded souks (and somehow became the main player in a camel 🐪 incident). I traded my blue jeans for a hammered copper plate, and handed out candies and pencils to children.

    The smell I’ll never forget of the Chouara tannery in the Fez Medina.

    The brilliance of color in the spice stalls.

    Having to leave our hotel room in Rabat early because the king was coming to town.

    Mint tea sipped while I learned about Moroccan wool rugs.

    A kiss was just a kiss in Casablanca.

    The roar of the Marrakech market, the traditional tooth seller/doctor in the Djemaa el-Fnaa square. Buying the freshest orange 🍊 juice of my life from one of the vendors.

    The humbling silence of the desert.

    I could write a novel about that journey. And maybe someday I will.

    It was there, in the vastness of that landscape, that I witnessed the purple sunset over the Atlas Mountains. Sometimes I question whether it was real or some desert mirage painted across the horizon just for us.

    But I know it happened.

    And that violet sky lives in me still.

    #2. The Northern Lights somewhere over Canada

    August 18, 2018

    The first time I saw the Northern Lights was August 18, 2018.

    Picture this: I’m sitting by the window on a late-night Delta flight from Minneapolis to Anchorage. The cabin lights are dimmed. Most passengers are asleep. The only sound is the steady hum of the engines at 35,000 feet.

    Being a night owl, I’m wide awake, thinking about how I am going to miss my youngest son once we drop him off in Alaska where he will start his junior hockey career.

    I glance out the window — and there they are.

    The Aurora Borealis, shimmering across the Canadian 🇨🇦 sky like something almost unreal. Waves of green light, dancing and pulsing right out my window as if the heavens were putting on a private show.

    I was speechless.

    I’ve seen the Northern Lights many times since (even three times from my own backyard) but they’ve never danced quite like they did in that night sky. Maybe it was the altitude. Maybe it was the stillness. Maybe it was simply the magic of a first.

    I woke up my boys — including my oldest, who turned 21 on that very flight — and had them lean over for a peek. It wasn’t as easy from the middle and aisle seats, but they caught enough to know it was special.

    While the rest of the plane slept, those dancing green lights gave me a once-in-a-lifetime, front-row performance.

    And I’ll never forget it.💚

    #3. Portland Head Light in New England — Cape Elizabeth, Maine

    October 26, 2019

    There are more than 60 lighthouses scattered along the rugged coast of Maine, and Portland Head Light was one worth seeing!

    Commissioned by George Washington in 1791, it stands as Maine’s oldest lighthouse — steadfast, timeless, watching over the Atlantic for more than two centuries.

    As we toured the former keeper’s quarters (now a museum) and wandered through the gift shop, we struck up a conversation with a man visiting with his family. Casual at first… until he mentioned he had once been the light keeper there. Of all the people we could have met that day!

    Standing inside those historic walls, listening to someone who had actually lived the life — tending the light, keeping watch over the sea — made the experience feel personal.

    One of the unexpected gifts of watching our son play junior hockey was the travel that came with it. While he skated for the Kenai River Brown Bears out of Soldotna/Kenai, Alaska, the team traveled across the continental U.S., and we happily followed when we could. That particular series brought us to Lewiston, Maine where we arrived early to explore Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.

    And then came the hockey 🏒 and one of my favorite series!

    That trip had everything: history, stunning fall New England color🍁, and the joy of watching your child chase a dream.

    Some places you visit. Others stay with you. Our Maine memories definitely stayed.

  • Reels from Social Media about our Antarctica adventures 🇦🇶

    Here are the social media stories about our adventures. You need an Instagram account to see those on that platform but you should be able to see the Facebook ones without having Facebook. 🤷‍♀️

    When we first got to Antarctica, it was indeed a Beautiful Day (U2): https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cm2T_h2ptJPrjXbpe-5oKmnYq0WuvDZIvAkL_Y0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Expedition has begun and as Louis Armstrong says What a Wonderful World: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cm63bnjvqINLV83f0wyR8QHL9guNzFIreRCwZ00/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Penguins and snow in Palaver Point, Two Hummock Island. Don’t Worry, Be Happy (Bobby McFerrin) was the theme of this day! https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnC0kFYNzrCEK4o_Q0bFsXoaimM_fZUG9Or8Ig0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc= OR on Facebook without music: https://www.facebook.com/reel/5671650036287982?mibextid=wa05Vy&fs=e&s=9RfQYY

    Baby Chinstrap Penguins at the rookery on Two Hummock Island. Isn’t She Lovely? (Stevie Wonder) https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnN32yMLb5sJERzS97KAjXpWFyTsQKGmgIWj_M0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Dreams (The Cranberries) for sure on Danco Island, Antarctica during our camping experience—sleeping (on the snow/ice) with a colony of Gentoo penguins while the Humpback whales sang in the bay: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnYKJinuQZyNoUZZNEVcbvkOocYIrigGCjusGo0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc= OR this one from Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/reel/3724972331062866?mibextid=wa05Vy&fs=e&s=9RfQYY

    SUPing in the Southern Ocean (Stand Up Paddleboarding) on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/reel/691724379123605?mibextid=wa05Vy&fs=e&s=9RfQYY OR this one from Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnAIepHKuUXvKy8aRaFfL5qgEgXMm0HmRQssQs0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Porpoising penguins of Antarctic! on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cn0ewOBDj6mFQpzNa5Su3uKbFPaOSqHCHtoN9s0/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

  • Happy New Year’s Eve!🇦🇶🎊

    Full day today as we approach the 7th continent. I posted our agenda below. The waters have calmed down considerable but I am now using the patch as well. I feel renewed!

    We finished the Helicopter safety briefing this morn. Our ship has two Airbus H145. We also entered the “who can spot the first iceberg” contest. I have heard different things but we should see one of islands off the Antarctica coast between 3:00-5:00 pm. For reference it’s 9:07 am in STL and 12:07 pm in The Drake Passage.

    Laura and I are sipping coffee/hot cocoa from the 7th deck in the panoramic lounge. It’s time to look for some whales. We’re ready!

    From the bow of the ship—ahoy mateys!
    Our daily agenda onboard Ultramarine💛
  • 12/30: They call it the Drake Shake 🌊🇦🇶

    We have been in the Drake Passage for over 24 hours. About another day to go. I was doing fine and now I am laying down due to the motion. Seems that while the Dramamine helps, it doesn’t help 100%. Let’s just hope it starts to calm down soon. While we haven’t experienced the 7 meter swells like we did the other evening, it’s a lot of constant rocking. 🌊

    Shout out to Hayley Arceneaux and Dr. Sian Proctor who spoke tonight about their experiences as astronauts on SpaceX’s Inspiration4 Mission last September. Not only are they two talented women who are “firsts” in many ways (Sian-first black woman to pilot a spacecraft; Hayley-first person in space with a prosthetic leg bone after surviving childhood bone cancer), they are also generously paving the way for others to follow!❤️ Did you know that this SpaceX mission raised $250M for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital? If you get a chance, watch the documentary on Netflix – Countdown: Inspiration4 Mission to Space️. It’s super cool that Quark Expeditions advocates for sustainability as well as diversity, equity and inclusion in their programming.

    Laura, Me, Sian, and Hayley in Ushuaia before boarding our ship 🛳️ 🚀
  • Take 2! 🇦🇷 💨

    All ship announcement: In 10 minutes (on 12/29) we are going for it! The captain will take us about 5 hours south to Cape Horn. Once we’re there he will reassess if we keep going on through to the Drake or turn around once again. Fingers (and toes) crossed! If anyone wants to follow the ship, go to www.cruisehive.com and put in our ship, The Ultramarine.

    I circled where we have been hanging out all day. It will take us 5 hours to get to the tip of Cape Horn and out to open water.
  • The weather 🌊🌩️🌊

    The weather 🌊🌩️🌊

    We’ve been cruising along the Beagle Channel since the captain made the decision not to cross the Drake at 3:00 am ish. While it’s been relatively calm, the waves are even a bit more rough here in the channel.

    I want you to see what we’re dealing with here. This is a pic of a weather map. The black line represents where we are in Ushuaia, on the southern tip of South America. Then we cross the Drake Passage where we will be in Antartica. The blue color is what we want—nice calm seas with no storms. Green is next in order of preference and then yellow, orange and red. Red truly does mean “STOP” (and turn back). The black circle represents the eye of the storm.

    Update—we just heard that we will try again at 4:00 am to start through the Drake. We found out that we only made it 11 nautical miles through the Drake before we had to turn around.

    The red puts the shake in the Drake
  • Short posts upload better…

    You will see much shorter posts from me. The free wifi isn’t that great and I don’t want to pay $50 A DAY for premium wifi.

    Hopefully you saw my update to the 12/28 post. If not, here it is again with some additional details—

    Holy moly—last night we were rocking. Up to 7 meter waves. And the Dramamine did the trick! This was in the Beagle Sound. We started in the Drake Passage but had to turn back so we remain in the Beagle Sound until the storm recedes and we can make it through. 4-5 ships are sheltering here now. The sound of the waves—the creaking! Comforting but yet frightening. Laura was talking to our head Expedition Leader, Ali, and we were planning to head into the Drake last night even with 7 meter swells but there was a ship coming out that told us to stop—the swells were up to 12 meters. That’s almost 40 feet!