Christina’s Journey Journal

Tag: Ultramarine

  • Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand 🇳🇿: Beauty, Burn, and Bragging Rights (March 21, 2026)

    Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand 🇳🇿: Beauty, Burn, and Bragging Rights (March 21, 2026)

    We set off at 7:30 am for the 20.2 km (~12.6 mile) hike on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Before we even took our first step on the trail, there was a quiet moment that felt different from every other hike we’ve done.

    At the start, there was a small ceremonial bowl of water. Brendan and I paused and washed our hands—simple, quick, but meaningful. In Māori culture, this connects to the idea of moving from tapu (sacred) to noa (balanced, safe to proceed). It’s a way of acknowledging that this land isn’t just beautiful—it’s spiritually significant.

    And standing there, about to hike (aka tramp) across an active volcanic landscape considered sacred, it felt like more than just a gesture. It felt like a reminder to tread with respect.

    Then we tightened our packs and set off on one of the most challenging and stunning hikes we’ve ever done.

    Ready to go!🚦

    🌿 The Gentle Lie: Mangatepopo Valley (The Beginning)

    We started optimistic, energized and slightly overconfident. The trail eased us in with a relatively flat, boardwalk-style path through the Mangatepopo Valley. It’s scenic, open, and led us to believe this was going to be manageable.

    We chatted. We admired the views. We said things like,

    “Wow, this isn’t bad at all!”

    Lol. The innocence.

    🪨 The Reality Check: Soda Springs to Devil’s Staircase

    Enter: The incline.

    The climb up to Soda Springs woke up our legs, but it’s the Devil’s Staircase that officially humbled us (well, maybe me more than Brendan). A relentless series of steep steps that felt like you’ve truly arrived in Hell.

    At this point our conversation decreased, our breathing increased, and layers started coming off (turns out five layers was ambitious).

    Lots of stairs. Lots and lots of stairs.
    And more stairs.

    And yet, you look up and the landscape is already becoming otherworldly.

    🌋 The “Why Are We Doing This?” Section: South Crater & Red Crater Climb

    We got a brief reprieve crossing the South Crater—a wide, flat expanse that feels like walking on another planet.

    Eventually we walked in that same cloud behind us once we ascended.

    Then we saw it.

    The climb up Red Crater.

    Holy moly. THAT WAS HARD. In fact, there’s even a sign after the Devil’s Staircase that says it’s about to get even harder, so if you want, turn back now.  

    It is definitely the hardest cardio part of the hike. It’s steep, loose, and requires equal parts determination and stubbornness. I didn’t think it was going to end.

    There was pain on that face disguised with a smile 😊

    But when we finally reached the top and stood at the highest point of the crossing, we were surrounded by raw volcanic beauty that made us forget (temporarily) how hard that really was.

    💨 The Descent That Tests Your Balance: Red Crater to Emerald Lakes

    Going down sounds easy. It is not.

    The descent is steep, covered in loose volcanic gravel, and feels like walking on marbles. It’s less “hiking” and more “controlled sliding while trying to look graceful.”

    This is also where my hiking poles officially became MVPs. Absolute lifesavers on the downhill—10/10 recommend if you enjoy having functional knees. Thank goodness for them otherwise I may have gone right off the edge. So many people were sliding and falling down, Brendan and me included. 

    But then—just as we’re  questioning everything—we see them…

    💚 The Showstopper: Emerald Lakes

    Bright, surreal, almost impossibly green.

    The Emerald Lakes look like they were photoshopped into real life. The contrast against the dark volcanic terrain is unreal! Suddenly everyone forgot their exhaustion and turned into a photographer.

    First glimpse of the 3 Emerald Lakes! Take a look at that downhill slide…everyone was stumbling and falling.
    That is steam coming up from the ground, which is created by groundwater that is heated by magma. It is also called a fumerole emission.

    This is where we paused. Took it in. Smelled the sulfur. Wonder how something this harsh can also be this beautiful.

    The stunning green color comes from dissolved minerals, including sulfur and calcium carbonate leaching from the thermal area.
    Take a closer look at the lakes (and the path to get to them😳)

    🩵 The Long Way Home: Blue Lake to Ketetahi Descent

    From here, the hike shifted yet again.

    We came to Blue Lake where we ate lunch, admired the calm, and watched the water change colors and sparkle. 

    Look at the clouds reflected in the Blue Lake!🩵

    Then we began the long descent down the other side. And when I say long, I mean long.

    This section tests your endurance in a completely different way. It’s less intense, but it just keeps going. And going. And going.

    My knees started negotiating. Our feet filed complaints. Brendan and I definitely hit the “are we there yet?” phase, more than once.

    But the views opened up again, stretching out toward Lake Taupō in the distance, reminding us why we’re doing this hike.💙

    🌄 The Finish Line 

    When you finally reach the end, there’s no dramatic finish line—just a quiet, deeply satisfying sense that you did something hard and worth every step. However, had there been “finisher medals” handed out, I would’ve kept that medal for the rest of my life and proudly displayed it in a prominent place! 🏅

    We finished in just under 7 ½ hours, tired, dusty, and fully in awe of what we had just experienced.

    Done!

    🥪 What We Brought (and were very glad we did)

    This is not a hike where you want to under-pack… but also not one where you want to wildly overdo it either (speaking from experience).

    Water: 

    I carried 2 liters of water in my hydration backpack + a Powerade. I drank every last drop. Brendan carried 3 liters of water, a Gatorade, and two extra bottles of water. He only had those two extra bottles left at the end.

    Equipment:

    I used my new Leki hiking poles, which were absolute lifesavers on the downhill. They’re also easy to pack as they fold up very small and have a carrying bag. Brendan did not use poles but he’s also 30 years younger than me lol. 

    Even if you don’t have knee problems, it’s very common to have knee issues on the way down because your quads are so taxed and there are a million steps. OK, maybe not a million but it sure felt like it.

    Food: 

    Our amazing hotel, Tongariro Crossing Lodge, packed us a perfect lunch—Ham and cheese sandwiches, chocolate, apple and granola bar. Plus we had some other snacks from a local gas station.

    Clothing: 

    As mentioned above, I wore five layers, which, in hindsight, was aggressively unnecessary.😂 Better safe than sorry as some days may be colder. 

    Weather: 

    We couldn’t have asked for a better day. Other than the time we were actually in a cloud, it was mainly sunny. Keep in mind that you constantly need to be checking the weather up to the point when you hike, and then you may even have to turn around if the weather is too severe. Keep in mind that this hike is pretty wide open so sunscreen and hats are a must.

    Also, we went through so many different biomes—volcanic, rolling hills, prairie, forest, jungle. I’ve never been on a hike, so diverse before.

    Transportation:

    Where are you start the hike and where you end it are two different places. Therefore, you don’t want to drive and leave your car at one end because you won’t have it when you finish.

    Therefore, our hotel booked us a ride both ways with Dempsey Buses. Worked perfectly.  They picked us up at 6:45 am and then brought us back to the hotel when we finished. Pick up time is either 3:00 or 4:30 (or you call them and they’ll pick you up after). We made the 3:00 pm. And it was a good thing we did because we had a 4-hour drive to Wellington after we finished the hike. 

    Altitude:

    Throughout the hike, we ascended 3,002 feet, we descended 4,170 feet, max elevation was 6,194 feet, and the minimum was 2,513 feet (thanks to Brendan’s Garmin watch).

    Attitude:

    Better bring a good one or that 6-8 hour hike will be miserable. Keep that positive mindset, think safety first, and enjoy the surprise around every corner.

    🤔 Reflection

    The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is physically demanding, mentally challenging, spiritually grounding, and visually surreal.

    We came for the hike. We left with sore legs, incredible views, and a much deeper respect for the land we crossed. It was worth every ache and pain that, hopefully, Advil is going to cure.

  • Rotorua, New Zealand 🇳🇿- Day 4 (March 19, 2026): Rafting, Waterfalls and a Māori cultural experience 

    Rotorua, New Zealand 🇳🇿- Day 4 (March 19, 2026): Rafting, Waterfalls and a Māori cultural experience 

    We left Auckland this morning in our rental…this will take some getting used to! We will be driving on the left side (just like we did with the e-bikes), and the driver sits on the right. Everything is reversed so instead of the turn signal, Brendan turned on the windshield wipers many times!

    We arrived in Rotorua around noon and stopped at Lake Rotorua—the volcanic crater lake in New Zealand’s Bay of Plenty region.

    Lake Rotorua – a caldera lake that was formed by a massive volcanic eruption over 200,000 years ago. It has a slightly green-yellow color which is caused by high sulfur and mineral content from the surrounding geothermal springs. We could smell the sulfur throughout Rotorua at various times but it wasn’t unpleasant.

    🌊 We Went Over the Highest Rafted Waterfall in the World

    We did the most extreme thing I’ve ever done—white water rafting on the Kaituna River, charging through Class V rapids and a series of waterfalls you actually go over in a raft.

    And then came the moment: Tutea Falls.

    At 23 feet (7 meters), it’s the highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world…and yes, we went straight over the edge.

    💥 The Experience

    This was an adrenaline rush like no other.

    For the first few falls (Maybe they were rapids?), I sat right up front—which meant taking the full force of every drop. Think: a wall of water straight to the face and more than a few unintended gulps of river water.

    This was our entrance into the canyon and the first drop. I am front left having my first “oh sh*t” moment!😱
    About to get my first big gulp of river water. Close your mouth!
    We survived the first one only to see the second drop!

    By the time we approached Tutea Falls, I made a strategic decision and moved to the back of the raft. When we plunged over and fully submerged, I held on for dear life—but this time, I knew enough to hold my breath. Progress. 😅

    I will take you through a series of photos of us going down the waterfall. My son had on his GoPro and will post when he downloads it. We were a group of 3 rafts. We went first over the falls. The second raft flipped going over and everyone but 1 person fell out—all ok! The 3rd raft repeated our performance.

    Approaching Tutea Falls!
    Tutea Falls – now I am back left, next to our guide in the red helmet, ducking my head as I was told to do, and getting ready for the 23 foot drop!
    Over we go!
    Water intake
    We are somewhere submerged below the falls
    And here we are!
    I am pretty sure that is actual water
    coming out of my nose 👃
    Loved this arial shot at the base of the falls
    Celebration!

    🚣 The Crew

    We went with Rotorua Rafting (through Viator), and they were fantastic.

       •   3 rafts in our group. Brendan and I were with our guide and then two others (one happened to be a former guide).

       •   Our guide, Jure from Slovenia, was equal parts hilarious and incredibly skilled

       •   You could tell instantly we were in good hands, especially after the prayer for good luck before we headed over Tutea Falls.😂

    👉 If you want a preview of just how wild this is, their Instagram says it all.

    All smiles at the end!😅

    🌿 Not Just Adrenaline

    What surprised me most? The setting.

    You’re not just battling rapids—you’re floating through what feels like a lush, jungle-like canyon with the rush of the water. It’s equal parts chaos and beauty.

    At one point, we even got to jump out of the raft and swim down a smaller waterfall/rapids, which somehow felt both insane and completely unforgettable.

    The surrounding landscape was breathtaking!

    🤔 Would I Do It Again?

    Heck yes.

    Would I recommend it? That depends on your comfort level, but if you’re even considering it, take the leap—literally. This is the kind of experience that sticks with you… the kind I will be talking about for years to anyone who will listen.

    TE PA TU – a living Māori cultural experience🥢

    We slowed down the pace and went to Te Pā Tū this evening and the 4 hours was everything I expected plus more.

    Te Pa Tu entrance
    The acceptance and welcoming of the visitors. We picked a “chief” to represent the visitors. That chief then performed the hongi, which is a Māori greeting where you shake hands and then touch your foreheads and noses two times. This symbolizes the exchange of ha (breath of life) and the merging of the souls. It also meant we were then welcomed to enter the village.

    Our time at Te Pā Tū is brought to life by the Tamaki family, who are storytellers, performers, and guardians of the Māori culture and traditions. The performers are all related (many cousins).

    After the welcoming, it’s not just a show you sit and watch. You’re pulled into it pretty quickly, moving through different parts of the experience while the family shares Māori stories, traditions, games, and history in a meaningful way. We tried our hand at the Māori poi balls, which are weighted tethered balls that are used in performance and help hand-eye coordination.

    The performers did the poi in a way that made it look easy. We know it wasn’t easy because we smacked ourselves in the head a few times. 

    We also learned about the traditional Māori stick games like Titi Torea, where players throw short sticks to each other or ti rakau (long sticks) where you pass the sticks left and right. Both help with rhythmic coordination and focus.

    Titi torea — the game is performed with wooden sticks known as tītī. We played the game where we moved right and left while catching the stick.

    The performance ended with the Haka, an up close experience that is intense and way more powerful than anything you see on video.

    And the food… yum! The hāngī alone is worth it. Btw, hāngī is a traditional New Zealand Māori method of cooking food using heated rocks buried in a pit oven.

    I left feeling like I learned so much about the Māori culture and left with a greater appreciation of just how special it is. ❤️

    ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

  • Auckland, New Zealand 🇳🇿 – Day 2 (March 17, 2026) – From Hobbit Holes to Underground Stars, “I’m going on an adventure!”

    Auckland, New Zealand 🇳🇿 – Day 2 (March 17, 2026) – From Hobbit Holes to Underground Stars, “I’m going on an adventure!”

    The magic of Middle-earth 🧙

    There are places you visit on a trip, and then there are places where the line between reality and a story simply disappears.

    Hobbiton, nestled amongst the rolling green hills outside the small farming town of Matamata, is one of those places.

    For a few hours, we weren’t just looking at a movie set—we were wandering through the Shire itself. And somehow, it felt completely real.

    ☘️💚☘️

    Today we visited the top tourist attraction in New Zealand—The Hobbiton Movie Set. We heard the story of how the Hobbiton came to be and the amazing work that’s gone into preserving this magical place.

    In 1998, location scouts for director Peter Jackson were searching New Zealand for a “shire” that could be used in The Lord of the Rings movie trilogy.

    From a helicopter, they spotted a farm that had all 3 main requirements: a sheep farm with rolling green hills, a lake, and no main road. That farm belonged to the Alexander family. A deal was made.

    Construction began shortly after where 44 hobbit holes were built into the hillsides, along with gardens, fences, and pathways.

    When the films became a global phenomenon, fans kept showing up asking where Hobbiton was. Eventually the set was rebuilt permanently for filming The Hobbit trilogy and stayed for all of us!

    The experience starts with a bus ride across the Alexander sheep farm. I felt like I was in the movie before even arriving!

    Then you see the Shire and you truly have stepped into Middle-earth—little round doors tucked into hillsides; stone paths winding through gardens; laundry hanging from clotheslines; smoke coming from the Baker’s chimney. I half expect Bilbo Baggins to step out and ask why I was on his front lawn!

    The Hobbit Hole of Bilbo and Frodo Baggins
    The hole of the baker
    Samwise Gamgee’s hobbit hole

    Each of the 44 hobbit holes has its own personality and profession. Some look like they belong to gardeners, with wheelbarrows and vegetable patches outside. Others belong to fishermen, with nets hanging on fences. One even has tiny cheese wheels stacked beside the door. Then there’s the beekeeper with an assortment of honey ready to be sold.

    The hobbit holes aren’t full houses. They’re mostly just façades. The real interiors were filmed on stages in Wellington. But the outside details are astonishing. Nothing is random. Every prop tells a story and the gardens are simply beautiful.

    Since 2023 there are now two holes that have been meticulously decorated inside. I wish I could live in a hobbit hole—talk about cozy!

    Inside a Hobbit hole and writing a letter.

    Another fun fact—The hobbit holes vary in size to create forced perspective for filming. For example, some doors are oversized to make actors look smaller or vice versa.

    This is the field where Bilbo Baggins celebrated his 111th birthday party! They used many local extras in that scene. Because it took several days to shoot (and lots of partying), they made sure the beer was specially brewed by NZ brewers and contained 1% alcohol. Couldn’t have hungover hobbits!

    Sheep 🐑 fact – the New Zealander sheep were too white, clean and fat to use in the movie. Therefore, Jackson brought in dirty, skinny sheep. When filming completed, he tried to leave the sheep there but no one would take them, so they had to be exported.

    After the tour we had some beer from the Green Dragon Inn and a yummy buffet lunch.

    Beneath the Earth: A Magical Journey Through Waitomo Caves

    Next, on to one of the country’s most surreal natural wonders. the Waitomo Glowworm Caves. I don’t have any pictures here as they’re not allowed once in the cave so I will describe its beauty the best I can…

    Step by step we descended about 40 meters (about 131 feet), and entered a world that feels almost otherworldly.

    Our experience began with a walk through limestone caverns sculpted over millions of years. We saw stalactites and stalagmites—nature’s slow, patient artwork. But the real grand finale reveals itself when the lights dim.

    We boarded a small boat and drifted silently through the darkness—no motor on the boat so the guide uses a rope system attached above to guide us.

    Look up and gasp at the thousands of blue-green lights that shimmer like a night sky. These are glowworms—unique to New Zealand—creating a living constellation across the cave ceiling. The stillness is striking. No talking, no engines, just the gentle glide of water and the quiet awe of the light!

    What makes Waitomo so unique isn’t just its beauty, it’s the feeling. It’s the sense that you’ve slipped into a hidden world that has existed for centuries and it’s a moment we won’t forget.

    Coming out of the cave with our guide.
    It looked like a tropical rain forest upon exiting the cave.

  • Reels from Social Media about our Antarctica adventures 🇦🇶

    Here are the social media stories about our adventures. You need an Instagram account to see those on that platform but you should be able to see the Facebook ones without having Facebook. 🤷‍♀️

    When we first got to Antarctica, it was indeed a Beautiful Day (U2): https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cm2T_h2ptJPrjXbpe-5oKmnYq0WuvDZIvAkL_Y0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Expedition has begun and as Louis Armstrong says What a Wonderful World: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cm63bnjvqINLV83f0wyR8QHL9guNzFIreRCwZ00/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Penguins and snow in Palaver Point, Two Hummock Island. Don’t Worry, Be Happy (Bobby McFerrin) was the theme of this day! https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnC0kFYNzrCEK4o_Q0bFsXoaimM_fZUG9Or8Ig0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc= OR on Facebook without music: https://www.facebook.com/reel/5671650036287982?mibextid=wa05Vy&fs=e&s=9RfQYY

    Baby Chinstrap Penguins at the rookery on Two Hummock Island. Isn’t She Lovely? (Stevie Wonder) https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnN32yMLb5sJERzS97KAjXpWFyTsQKGmgIWj_M0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Dreams (The Cranberries) for sure on Danco Island, Antarctica during our camping experience—sleeping (on the snow/ice) with a colony of Gentoo penguins while the Humpback whales sang in the bay: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnYKJinuQZyNoUZZNEVcbvkOocYIrigGCjusGo0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc= OR this one from Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/reel/3724972331062866?mibextid=wa05Vy&fs=e&s=9RfQYY

    SUPing in the Southern Ocean (Stand Up Paddleboarding) on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/reel/691724379123605?mibextid=wa05Vy&fs=e&s=9RfQYY OR this one from Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnAIepHKuUXvKy8aRaFfL5qgEgXMm0HmRQssQs0/?igshid=ZmMyNmFmZTc=

    Porpoising penguins of Antarctic! on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cn0ewOBDj6mFQpzNa5Su3uKbFPaOSqHCHtoN9s0/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

  • One of my favorite memories – The Humpback Whales in Graham Passage on New Year’s Day 🇦🇶

    One of my favorite memories – The Humpback Whales in Graham Passage on New Year’s Day 🇦🇶

    Happy New Year! One of my favorite moments in Antarctica happened on Jan. 1st, 2023–our first day exploring the peninsula.

    We are required to maintain a certain distance from all wildlife, including the whales. But sometimes they have other plans. There were lots of whales in Graham Passage that day and this curious Humpback whale went directly under our zodiac boat and came out the other side. 😮

    Then, another Humpback (maybe the same one?) did the same thing about 10 minutes later. I don’t have a very good video of that 2nd time, but I do of the first time! I have posted both below. (Video taken on my iPhone 13 ProMax- I did not zoom in.)

    The case of the curious Humpback under our zodiac. Ali, the lead expedition guide on the ship, was our guide/Zodiac driver. She said that this has only happened to her one other time in the 9 years she has been a guide. 🐋
    This is the second time. I wasn’t in a good position on the Zodiac to film but you can see the whale’s outline under the water in the beginning of the video.
  • Useful Island Gentoo Penguin Videos from Jan. 3, 2023 🇦🇶

    Useful Island Gentoo Penguin Videos from Jan. 3, 2023 🇦🇶

    Useful Island is covered with Gentoo Penguins colonies and we had so much fun watching them! Here are some videos from that day—always maintaining our 5 meter distance except when one crossed in front of us and I had no where else to go except to stand still (as I was hiking up a hill). I know that some of my narrative isn’t all that great but these little penguins rendered me speechless!

    Welcome to Useful Island!
    Home of Gentoo Penguin colonies
    This is a stand off between a Gentoo Penguin and the Skua bird. These birds are known for two things—stealing Penguin eggs and eating baby chicks.
    We were hiking up the island to see the Chinstrap rookery when these two Gentoo penguins decided to cross my path. It’s very important that we stay on our path and I could not turn around as there were people behind me. So I just stayed still and let them cross.
  • Some cool penguin videos 🇦🇶

    Some cool penguin videos 🇦🇶

    I wasn’t able to upload these on the ship so will try now that I have better cell service. This video was captured on Palaver Point on Two Hummock Island, Antarctica on Jan. 4, 2023. The Chinstrap chicks have started to hatch! You will see that the first Penguin has one chick and the second Penguin has two. Who is caring for these chicks? The mom and dad equally care for them, and that includes sitting on the egg.
    More Chinstrap penguins on Two Hummock Island. They were a boisterous bunch! We maintained our 5 meter distance so I zoomed in. What’s more perfect than a video of super cute penguins? A video of super cute penguins when it’s snowing!❄️

  • 1/7/2023 Back in Ushuaia 🇦🇷

    What a gorgeous day back in Ushuaia! We are getting ready to disembark and take a tour of Tierra Del Fuego National Park. We will eat lunch at the park and then head to the airport.

    Btw-the Drake was much better than it was when we went to Antarctic. Our crew said that was the “Drake Lake”. I found it interesting because it definitely wasn’t smooth. There were a good number of people who felt sea sick due to a constant roll of the ship. The patch saved me—worked like a charm!

    One note about last evening—our ship’s photographer put together a slide show with pictures he took, as well as those pictures we shared with him. It was amazing and really captured everything we did. He will share the presentation, along with all photos, in a couple of weeks. There were many professional photographers who are passengers on our ship with sophisticated cameras. (FYI there is a photographer on board that films nature and even won an Emmy).

  • Ice cream, you scream…🇦🇶

    Not sure what I’m going to do when I cannot have ice cream twice a day 🤣

    Today’s flavors – chocolate and hazelnut. Perfect combo

  • 1/6/23 – Last day on the ship

    We dock tomorrow and then spend two days traveling home via airplane. This has been a surreal and magical trip—more than I could have imagined! The staff/the crew are all outstanding. They know your name and are always striving to go above and beyond.

    Antarctica exceeded my expectations — I have said this before but it’s other worldly. Serene, beautiful, primitive, wild, and unspoiled. A camera cannot capture the uniqueness of Antarctica, nor can words. It’s one of those “you have to see it to believe it”.

    Everyone on board, including our expedition leaders, have been taking photos/videos and sharing to Ultramarine’s computer. The photographer on the Quark staff is putting all together and will send us the link so we can download the ones we want. There will also be a slide show tonight!

    I just returned from the discussion about Humpback whales (Baleen whales). So fascinating! Some tidbits about these amazing mammals and their culture:

    1. The tail that comes out of the water is called a fluke. They can be 18 feet wide and each fluke is unique. We saw one that had a chunk out of it’s fluke, for example. It’s like our fingerprints. When you see the fluke, you know you won’t see the whale for awhile as fluking helps them dive deep.

    2. They sing songs—and are one of 4 whale species that do this. To be considered a song, it has to have: Melody, rhythm, pitch, and repetition. And the Humpbacks have this! You can find recordings on YouTube. Our biologist, Tom, walked us through an actual Humpback song. It is believed they use their songs as a way to establish the pecking order amongst the group, not for mating.

    3. Their biggest predator is the Orca (Killer) whale —the Orcas focus in on the baby Humpbacks by separating from its mother and then dragging them down, essentially drowning them.

    4. The Humpbacks are here in Antarctica during the summer months to feed. Their breakfast, lunch and dinner of choice are Krill.

    5. They engage in a behavior called Bubble-net feeding. This occurs when whales blow bubbles from their noses to encircle their food (krill/fish) like a net, luring their prey into a tight ball. Then the whales swim together from beneath the water and rise to the surface opening their mouths to gulp up their prey. (We actually saw this behavior the night we camped)

    6. Humpback whales range between 39 to 52 feet in length. They weigh on average 28-33 short tons, although they can be much heavier. The females are larger than the males because they need all that extra blubber for birthing.

    Last full day on the Ultramarine! Tomorrow we disembark & tour Tierra Del Fuego National Park

  • 1/4/2023 – An afternoon with the penguins 🇦🇶

    What a picture perfect day in Antarctica. There were penguins, it was snowing, and there were Humpback whales in the bay! A postcard afternoon.

    Wifi has been slow so going to keep this post brief and show you some of the boisterous and amazing penguins at Palaver Point on Two Hummock Island in Antarctica. Lots of Chinstrap colonies and rookeries with baby chicks (penguins)

    Chinstrap Penguins
    Some are lying on their nests or newly hatched babies

  • 1/4/2023 – Morning in Wilhelmina Bay 🇦🇶

    Icebergs, glaciers, whales, a ship wreck from 1915, a Crabeater seal, and Lichen welcomed us this morning on our zodiac cruise in Wilhelmina Bay.

    A crabeater seal on a gorgeous iceberg. The bluer the iceberg, the older the ice.
    This is the Governoren ship in the middle—two other ships are viewing it on either side. In January 1915, the crew was celebrating another successful whaling trip below deck. Someone (probably partying too much), knocked a lamp off the table and the ship went up in flames. Remember what this ship did? Whaling. They had thousands of gallons of whale oil aboard. All men aboard were saved but the ship remains exactly where it went up in flames.

    The brownish – rust stuff is Lichen (pronounced Like In), a complex life form that results due to a symbiotic partnership of two separate organisms, a fungus and an alga. Here is the poem—Fred Fungus met Alice Algae and they took a Lichen to each other 💚

  • 1/3/2023 (Good afternoon!) – Just do it! 🇦🇶

    Well, I just did it! “It” is SUP, which is an acronym for “stand up paddle-boarding” and I was very lucky to be a part of a group of 6 others who went SUPing in the Southern Ocean. We saw a humpback whale, lots of penguins swimming, navigated around icebergs from a safe distance, and were so close to the water! I will never forget this one. Started from my knees and eventually worked my way up to standing.

    Working on my courage to stand up! SUP in the Southern Ocean (aka Antarctic Ocean)
    The ocean was like glass! And when my legs stopped shaking, it was one of the coolest experiences.

    FYI – had trouble with this post and it posted like 4 times. I have deleted the others and may have accidentally deleted comments – apologies!!

    Wow! Just wow. Unbelievable experience. Thanks to our guide, Sarah, for the lessons and the incredible spot to SUP!

  • 1/3/2023 And the afternoon continues…

    After the paddle boarding experience, they took us to Damoy Point, which is a rocky isthmus off the west coast of Wiencke Island on the Antarctica Peninsula. There is another Gentoo Penguin Colony and an historic hut established by the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) in 1975. It was last occupied in 1993 but now is a museum of sorts for visitors. It also has supplies for emergency purposes. It’s unlocked so we could see it. In addition, there is an ice landing field above the hut, on top of the glacier. The British would use this to fly supplies to Rothera Research Station when they couldn’t move supplies by ship.

    The hut is now an historic site and monument
    Gentoo Penguin Colony on Damoy Point with our ship, mountains and icebergs in the background. What a landscape! Kind of takes your breath away, doesn’t it?

  • 1/3/2023: (Good Morning!) A packed agenda 🇦🇶

    After we returned to the ship from camping, we had a day full of adventure so no time to rest. Tonight we are exhausted, sun burned (even with lots of sunscreen), and full of memories!

    Laura and I both kicked off our morning by adventuring out in the Zodiac. BTW—they split the guests into 4 groups and then call one group at a time for activities – Albatross (our group), Gentoo, Petrel, Humpback. In addition, have loading/unloading zodiacs down to perfection.

    We’ve seen a ton of Humpbacks whales, we saw Fin whales, and today we also saw a Minke. I don’t have a picture because they move with a purpose and are back under the water before you can get your camera out.

    Morning Zodiac cruise – We landed on Useful Island, the home to Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins. There were penguins EVERYWHERE! Hundreds (if not thousands) of them in colonies, most sitting on eggs. Their babies should be born very soon! Again, we abided by the minimum 5 meter rule but they are curious creatures who wander onto your path so then we have to back away. One such encounter happened while we were hiking up the hillside to see the Chinstrap. They are the cutest birds, curious, and attracted to the color red (because they eat krill who have a reddish color)

    Zodiac Cruisin’ in the Gerlache Straight – lots and lots and lots of icebergs! Will try and post some on the photos page when wifi improves
    Two Gentoo Penguins on Useful Island
    A Gentoo penguin faces off with a Skua bird…who wants its egg!

  • 1/3/2023 – Camping on the Continent Part 2 🇦🇶

    Here is Laura showing off our sleeping bags. Never did the word “layers” mean so much to our warmth as it did last night.

    Getting ready for a night on Danco Island!🐧🐋

  • 1/2/2023 – The heli flight seeing!🇦🇶

    One of the main reasons we choose Quark is because of their consciousness—to the environment, their guests, their employees. Everything they do is centered around safety for the continent and their guests. This is reflected in the mandatory meetings we go to, the history we learn, the wildlife we encounter, and their commitment to the standards set forth by IAATO for visitors to the continent.

    The second reason we choose Quark is because of their amenities and what we just did—flight seeing! As I said in a prior post, there are two bright yellow Airbus H-145 on board. Every passenger on the ship gets to do one of these tours and we just did ours! We also signed up for the heli landing tour, which may or may not happen tomorrow. Everything (and I do mean everything) is dependent on the weather.

    We only had 5 people—4 in the back and someone in the co-pilot’s seat. Everyone got a window seat!
    Hi Laura!
    Ready for take off!💛
    Cruisin’ over the Antarctica peninsula

    The heli was super smooth and the weather cooperated. The day couldn’t have been any better with these views. WHOA! Seeing places where no person has stepped foot on…it’s overwhelming (in a good way) 😮

  • Two more pics 🇦🇶

    While we await the helicopter flight seeing tour, we are right next to this same iceberg.

    Angle from the ship💙

    There are 3 main types of icebergs: 1. Growler (less than 1 meter), Bergy Bit (1 meter but less than 5 meters), Iceberg (>5 meters)

    Here’s one that comes with a pool!

  • 1/2/23 – Back from morning zodiac excursion in Fornier Bay 🇦🇶☀️

    Yesterday, I sometimes didn’t know where the sky and the ground came together because of the snow and overcast skies.

    Today, the sky and the ocean are one! Bluebird day at Fornier Bay. Lots and lots of humpback whales hanging around. We have to stay a good distance from them—unless they approach (like the one did with us yesterday). I caught a few tails!

    In addition, we saw a female Leopard Seal hanging out on the ice. Again, we maintained our distance. It is their space, not ours. This type of seal is at the top of the food chain, along with Orcas (Killer Whales).

    Note – NONE of these pictures are touched up in any way. Taken on my iPhone 13 Pro Max. This is Antarctica!

    Leopard Sea soaking in the sun ☀️ – we were a ways away per the requirement—this is zoomed in
    One of about 8 whales tails we saw today
    No words for this. Nature’s art canvas at work!

  • 1/1/2023 – Expedition 2 – Graham Passage 🇦🇶

    Fyi—may have to remove the picture from this post as wifi isn’t working very well. Like Laura said, “Well, we are in Antarctica!”

    We took the Zodiac to the passage, explored the amazing icebergs and saw some humpback whales—in fact one went right under our Zodiac!! I have the video to prove it but it will not upload. I will try again later.

    Our guide said that this has only happened to her once before in her 9 years of leading expeditions!

    We saw whales!